The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

Full of valuable information, 22 May 2005
Having climbed 2 big wall routes on El Cap, I would still re-read this book before going out for another route. Excellent descriptions of the most efficient aid climbing systems, how to haul, how to clean etc. First time you clean a traversing pitch you will be pleased you read this book! If you want to do a wall then beg, borrow, steal (or better buy) this book. Makes for a good read on the flight to California.

Good reference, 27 Jan 1998
The best way to learn to aid and climb big walls with the exception of going out there and doing it. A good reference for beginners. The illustrations are a little corny. Looked like a throw back to the 1970's. Illustrations probably lifted from "Climbing Big Walls," edited by Mike Strassman.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

Full of valuable information, 22 May 2005
Having climbed 2 big wall routes on El Cap, I would still re-read this book before going out for another route. Excellent descriptions of the most efficient aid climbing systems, how to haul, how to clean etc. First time you clean a traversing pitch you will be pleased you read this book! If you want to do a wall then beg, borrow, steal (or better buy) this book. Makes for a good read on the flight to California.

Good reference, 27 Jan 1998
The best way to learn to aid and climb big walls with the exception of going out there and doing it. A good reference for beginners. The illustrations are a little corny. Looked like a throw back to the 1970's. Illustrations probably lifted from "Climbing Big Walls," edited by Mike Strassman.

More in-depth book than any in its kind I've seen, 18 Jan 2006
I don't agree with the guys who refer the book as incomplete overview or lobsided to sport climbing only.
All mental, biological and physical approaches are mentioned and discussed there. You can apply a lot of the principles to many aspects of your climbing. I've never come across any training books in english that cover so much in depth of the fundamentals.
I live in Euorpe and I don't see any effort of the authors trying to amalgamate the European and American methodolgies. The authors simple apply their scientific knowledge and findings into their sport. That's nothing wrong with that.
You have to find me a french publication that betters this one to convince me otherwise.

Title should read - Performance Sport climbing, 08 Apr 1999
OK it IS a good book, well written and clearly illustrated with examples, but where it falls down is the focus it places on pure gymnastic ability, strength and power. There is little said of the need for psychological control, building up mental ability in line with physical ability. This is fine if you are going to spend your life clipping bolts or top roping plastic, however if you are ever going to climb trad or (God forbid climb on a mountain)there are other aspects that require consideration. Good book, buy it, become strong. Do not expect to go out to the crag and be able to use all that strenght.

An interesting, though wholly incomplete overview, 16 Dec 1998
Performance Rock Climbing was clearly written by Udo Neumann, in an attempt to capitalize on Goddard's brief success on the North American climbing scene. The training methods suggested in this book are the most efficient available, yet are not developped to their fullest possible extent. In brief, this book serves as an introduction to anyone wanting to improve.

The problem with training for climbing in North America is twofold. 1. North Americans would rather take a pill to get better than invest a lot of time into something. As proof, look at adds that offer the shortest possible delay before wieght loss, or muscle building. All products, including this book, are aimed at a limited growth over a short period of time. 2. Climbing in North America still invokes feelings of freedom and rebellion. Training for climbing is not about seeing nature, or being "out there." It is about discipline, and sacrifice. It is work.

Performance Rock climbing is a blatant attempt to integrate years of European training methodolgy with the American ideology. As such, it fails in its mission. It does not instruct enough on the uses and benefits of periodization nor cycles. It "dumbs down" the physiological aspects for a less receptive American audience, while using language that attempts to make it appear "scientific." Anyone capable of understanding the language used will quickly see through its double message.

If you are interested in serious training, there are many options available to you. Have you ever wondered why the French dominate the climbing arena? Maybe, if you care, look into some of their publications.

High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, 12 Jan 1998
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities, 06 Sep 1997
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

Full of valuable information, 22 May 2005
Having climbed 2 big wall routes on El Cap, I would still re-read this book before going out for another route. Excellent descriptions of the most efficient aid climbing systems, how to haul, how to clean etc. First time you clean a traversing pitch you will be pleased you read this book! If you want to do a wall then beg, borrow, steal (or better buy) this book. Makes for a good read on the flight to California.

Good reference, 27 Jan 1998
The best way to learn to aid and climb big walls with the exception of going out there and doing it. A good reference for beginners. The illustrations are a little corny. Looked like a throw back to the 1970's. Illustrations probably lifted from "Climbing Big Walls," edited by Mike Strassman.

More in-depth book than any in its kind I've seen, 18 Jan 2006
I don't agree with the guys who refer the book as incomplete overview or lobsided to sport climbing only.
All mental, biological and physical approaches are mentioned and discussed there. You can apply a lot of the principles to many aspects of your climbing. I've never come across any training books in english that cover so much in depth of the fundamentals.
I live in Euorpe and I don't see any effort of the authors trying to amalgamate the European and American methodolgies. The authors simple apply their scientific knowledge and findings into their sport. That's nothing wrong with that.
You have to find me a french publication that betters this one to convince me otherwise.

Title should read - Performance Sport climbing, 08 Apr 1999
OK it IS a good book, well written and clearly illustrated with examples, but where it falls down is the focus it places on pure gymnastic ability, strength and power. There is little said of the need for psychological control, building up mental ability in line with physical ability. This is fine if you are going to spend your life clipping bolts or top roping plastic, however if you are ever going to climb trad or (God forbid climb on a mountain)there are other aspects that require consideration. Good book, buy it, become strong. Do not expect to go out to the crag and be able to use all that strenght.

An interesting, though wholly incomplete overview, 16 Dec 1998
Performance Rock Climbing was clearly written by Udo Neumann, in an attempt to capitalize on Goddard's brief success on the North American climbing scene. The training methods suggested in this book are the most efficient available, yet are not developped to their fullest possible extent. In brief, this book serves as an introduction to anyone wanting to improve.

The problem with training for climbing in North America is twofold. 1. North Americans would rather take a pill to get better than invest a lot of time into something. As proof, look at adds that offer the shortest possible delay before wieght loss, or muscle building. All products, including this book, are aimed at a limited growth over a short period of time. 2. Climbing in North America still invokes feelings of freedom and rebellion. Training for climbing is not about seeing nature, or being "out there." It is about discipline, and sacrifice. It is work.

Performance Rock climbing is a blatant attempt to integrate years of European training methodolgy with the American ideology. As such, it fails in its mission. It does not instruct enough on the uses and benefits of periodization nor cycles. It "dumbs down" the physiological aspects for a less receptive American audience, while using language that attempts to make it appear "scientific." Anyone capable of understanding the language used will quickly see through its double message.

If you are interested in serious training, there are many options available to you. Have you ever wondered why the French dominate the climbing arena? Maybe, if you care, look into some of their publications.

High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, 12 Jan 1998
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities, 06 Sep 1997
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport.

Enjoyed this since I first got it, 14 Aug 2008
This book came out when I was still at university in Leeds. It rapidly became my personal favourite of the Lake District guides.

It's a great combination of concise route description, with enough detail to find your way, but enough also left to the imagination. The route descriptions are both evocative and practical.

The pictures in the first edition were excellent by standards of the time. They certainly got me wanting to get out in the fells. They now look a bit dated, and modern standards are higher.

This book helped me and many others to get to know the Lake District better, and it is still a super guidebook. I'm basing my review on the first edition, and I'm glad to see it's been updated now. Thank you to Bob Allen for writing it.

The book continues to help walkers get to know the Lake District fells better.

On High Lakeland Fells, 31 Jul 2005
I searched high and low for an original copy of this book. It is the best book of high fells walks you can find. Bob Allen's descriptions are fantastic and as well as classic lakeland walks there are many alternatives for the more adventurous scrambler. I cannot reccomend this book highly enough.

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

Full of valuable information, 22 May 2005
Having climbed 2 big wall routes on El Cap, I would still re-read this book before going out for another route. Excellent descriptions of the most efficient aid climbing systems, how to haul, how to clean etc. First time you clean a traversing pitch you will be pleased you read this book! If you want to do a wall then beg, borrow, steal (or better buy) this book. Makes for a good read on the flight to California.

Good reference, 27 Jan 1998
The best way to learn to aid and climb big walls with the exception of going out there and doing it. A good reference for beginners. The illustrations are a little corny. Looked like a throw back to the 1970's. Illustrations probably lifted from "Climbing Big Walls," edited by Mike Strassman.

More in-depth book than any in its kind I've seen, 18 Jan 2006
I don't agree with the guys who refer the book as incomplete overview or lobsided to sport climbing only.
All mental, biological and physical approaches are mentioned and discussed there. You can apply a lot of the principles to many aspects of your climbing. I've never come across any training books in english that cover so much in depth of the fundamentals.
I live in Euorpe and I don't see any effort of the authors trying to amalgamate the European and American methodolgies. The authors simple apply their scientific knowledge and findings into their sport. That's nothing wrong with that.
You have to find me a french publication that betters this one to convince me otherwise.

Title should read - Performance Sport climbing, 08 Apr 1999
OK it IS a good book, well written and clearly illustrated with examples, but where it falls down is the focus it places on pure gymnastic ability, strength and power. There is little said of the need for psychological control, building up mental ability in line with physical ability. This is fine if you are going to spend your life clipping bolts or top roping plastic, however if you are ever going to climb trad or (God forbid climb on a mountain)there are other aspects that require consideration. Good book, buy it, become strong. Do not expect to go out to the crag and be able to use all that strenght.

An interesting, though wholly incomplete overview, 16 Dec 1998
Performance Rock Climbing was clearly written by Udo Neumann, in an attempt to capitalize on Goddard's brief success on the North American climbing scene. The training methods suggested in this book are the most efficient available, yet are not developped to their fullest possible extent. In brief, this book serves as an introduction to anyone wanting to improve.

The problem with training for climbing in North America is twofold. 1. North Americans would rather take a pill to get better than invest a lot of time into something. As proof, look at adds that offer the shortest possible delay before wieght loss, or muscle building. All products, including this book, are aimed at a limited growth over a short period of time. 2. Climbing in North America still invokes feelings of freedom and rebellion. Training for climbing is not about seeing nature, or being "out there." It is about discipline, and sacrifice. It is work.

Performance Rock climbing is a blatant attempt to integrate years of European training methodolgy with the American ideology. As such, it fails in its mission. It does not instruct enough on the uses and benefits of periodization nor cycles. It "dumbs down" the physiological aspects for a less receptive American audience, while using language that attempts to make it appear "scientific." Anyone capable of understanding the language used will quickly see through its double message.

If you are interested in serious training, there are many options available to you. Have you ever wondered why the French dominate the climbing arena? Maybe, if you care, look into some of their publications.

High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, 12 Jan 1998
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities, 06 Sep 1997
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport.

Enjoyed this since I first got it, 14 Aug 2008
This book came out when I was still at university in Leeds. It rapidly became my personal favourite of the Lake District guides.

It's a great combination of concise route description, with enough detail to find your way, but enough also left to the imagination. The route descriptions are both evocative and practical.

The pictures in the first edition were excellent by standards of the time. They certainly got me wanting to get out in the fells. They now look a bit dated, and modern standards are higher.

This book helped me and many others to get to know the Lake District better, and it is still a super guidebook. I'm basing my review on the first edition, and I'm glad to see it's been updated now. Thank you to Bob Allen for writing it.

The book continues to help walkers get to know the Lake District fells better.

On High Lakeland Fells, 31 Jul 2005
I searched high and low for an original copy of this book. It is the best book of high fells walks you can find. Bob Allen's descriptions are fantastic and as well as classic lakeland walks there are many alternatives for the more adventurous scrambler. I cannot reccomend this book highly enough.

Superb selection but suspect statistics, 11 Oct 2008
I welcome the theme of `The Long Routes' and with only a few exceptions I agree with Robin Ashcroft's selection of climbs in both the Lake District and Snowdonia, and most climbers would predictably choose something similar. Differences of opinion should not be a source of criticism as choice is subjective, but I am objectively uneasy about how the book is presented. After introductions the book starts with adequate explanations on format (though even here the subsequent use of shading on topos is overlooked), but it continues with sections attempting guidance on equipment and techniques where it may have been better to omit such instruction instead of treating it in a meagre and unbalanced way. Equally, pronouncements on conservation and ethics are limited and out of place. A more helpful position for advice would be within the chapters for each route, but here the author appears blasé about protection. Though he frequently advises gear placements he is not always specific, and he infers how easy it is - sometimes when it isn't (as first pitch of Needle Ridge).

More consequential is the claim that climbs included in `The Long Routes' "provide the natural next step for the adventurous scrambler", yet inclusion of grades from `Diff.' to `Hard Severe' seems too all-embracing and surely goes too far. There is a devastating difference between scrambling or tackling a route like Main Wall on Cyrn Las or Bridge's Route on Esk Buttress (wrongly labelled Bridger's Route). Also I believe some grades are incorrectly stated. Jones' Route Direct on Scafell Pinnacle is `VS' and maybe Slingsby's Chimney at `V.Diff.' is more appropriate to the book's philosophy. North Climb on Pillar may be more of a character classic than North East Climb and it could be more readily graded with reference to `Diff.' plus alternatives to final pitch. And if `Severes' are to be promoted then omission of Murray's Route on Dow Crag is inexcusable (sorry - I said there was no disagreement over choice). At the opposite end of the grade argument I rate Atlantic Slab on Carnedd y Filiast as a scramble to be done in boots, and I shrink from Ashcroft's unworthy advice to "just use your sticky soles".

I found some route details difficult to follow and wonder why it was felt necessary to rewrite many of the traditional accounts in Fell & Rock and Climbers' Club definitive guidebooks (copyright ?). Perhaps there is no cause for denunciation of Ashcroft's division of climbs into pitches, but his advice does not always equate with my own experience. Even so a glaring omission is not to state lengths of pitches. Happily many of the selected routes are well-scratched and easy to fathom, and stances are obvious, but without quantified pitch division and with almost cryptic description I defy anyone other than the cognoscenti to understand some of the route particulars - like Middlefell Buttress in Langdale. Also some of the sketches are insufficient for recognition of features, and others are misleading - an example is Gillercombe Buttress (where to make matters worse the final "tricky traverse" referred to with the second pitch cuts back left - not right as described!).

Descent details could be another source for fault-finding but I've said enough and many other issues would only be quibbles. As implied at the start of this review Robin Ashcroft's choice of long routes is fair and predictable. His book's positive contribution is to identify lower grade classic challenges, and readers can be confident those selected for `The Long Routes' will not disappoint. It is pleasing to read of mountaineering rock climbs, many with continuations to summits, and I am delighted to learn some of my favourites from over 50 years ago are still to be recommended. However as far as route detail is concerned I finish with a warning for readers to beware and to seek information elsewhere.


Rubbish!, 27 Aug 2008
I fully agree with the reviewer before me. This book was disappointing and not at all the type of book I was expecting when I ordered it. Unattractive, with no photography, bad route descriptions (if you want a route description, get a guidebook) and boring write ups. This is not a guidebook, not a coffee table book, and not anything in between either. Avoid!

A poor, derivative book, 25 Jun 2005
Poorly researched, produced and rather unattractive guide to an idiosyncratic selection of routes. Merely recycles information already published in many other guidebooks in much better detail. Full of basic errors (e.g. referring consistently to 'Bridge's Route' as 'Bridgers Route'). One to avoid.

A good book for finding exciting multi-pitch rock climbs., 04 Mar 2001
This book goes back to those halcyon days of rock climbing when you didn't need to be a lycra clad gymnast. This book holds a fascinating collection of classic long rock climbs in a high mountain setting. The descriptions are easy to understand but inspiring nontheless and the text is supported with good photographs. It made me want to get out and do some of them

The Only Book You Need, 02 Jun 2008
This book is brilliant I have read the other Falcon Guides an most of Erics books but this is like them all in one great volume with full colour photos everything you need to know about training for climbing this book will get you in superb condition for climbing!

Compact and Informative, 23 Apr 2006
This book is excellent. I was a bit wary when I ordered it thinking it would either be for climbing snobs or only of use to boy scouts. I am pleased to say however that while it is easy to read and understand, with good honest descriptions of what each knot is best used for the style encourages you to want to learn more.

I am pleased to say the book starts by making it clear that it is not a manual that once read means the reader will instantly become an accomplished climber and recognises that its contents are but one ingredient (all be it a vital one) in the receipe to successful and safe climbing.

Top marks for a compact, but easy to follow, informative book that really delivers.

Learning to Climb Indoors, 26 Jul 2008
'Learning to climb indoors' is another excellent climbing book from Eric Horst. It covers all aspects of indoor climbing for beginners in a clear and comprehensive way. Although they are in black and white throughout, the photos are excellent and really show the points he makes extremely well. This book covers finding an indoor wall, what equipment is needed, learning safety systems, basic skills and drills to practice them, advanced skills and drills, tips on lead climbing, mental training and fear management, getting into shape for climbing and further tips for climbing success. What with the in-depth glossary and resources pages at the back, this makes for an information packed book that still manages to be clear and concise. Horst's books always have a strong sports science feel to them, with plenty of diagrams and reasoning to the ideas he puts forward, this ensures you know that what he suggests isn't only based on his extensive climbing experience, but also based on solid sports science. A great read for beginner to intermediate climbers and well worth a read if you're just starting out.

Great book for beginners, 22 Oct 2007
I've been climbing for 1 month. After reading this book my bouldering & top roping improved very quickly. Mentally I've become more focused on what I'm trying to achieve, I have more confidence in my feet & I'm better at avoiding the dreaded barndoor through understanding where the forces are used in climbing. The diagrams are superb and really help you consider where your energy should be directed when solving problems. Also some of the drills are well documented adding value to your basics and improving your overall ability. Perhaps this book may only help a little if you've been climbing for a while, but for a novice I've found it's improved my skills within the indoor arena.

Review, 16 Dec 2003
I was not impressed with the content of this book in that, whilst it contains some useful information, it does not actually support the activity of building your own climbing wall, based only on the information contained within it, which I believe is a reasonable assumption given the books title.

To be fair, given the books price, and the fact that on it's initial publication the volume of information currently available on the internet to support climbing wall construction was likely minimal, it would once have been a good introduction to the subject, but most the information is now freely available via the popular climbing sites and also those of the climbing hold manufacturers, and in more detail.

Whilst it might still serve as a good overview for those involved with the construction of commercial climbing wall facilities, it really does not contain any useful information for those wishing to construct home training/bouldering walls as it lacks specific details, refering you instead to consult with your construction engineer at all those points when are looking to the book for guidance ! Whilst this advice is entirely correct for a commercial venture is likely to be of little use to the individual climber constructing in his gararge/basement, to which I would advise using the internet.

Rock Climbing book good for beginners and experienced climbers, 21 Jan 2008
This is a tidy book, well laid out and with a lot of very clear and useful photographs. The photos are well used to illustrate the text sections, as I often find that diagrams in other books are cluttered and confusing.

As a professional instructor, I like the way that the book has been laid out, in a logical progression of skills, just the way that it should be taught. Other fellow instructors agree with this, and also that the content is technically sound and up to date. The only small gripe possible is where 'he' has been used for the leader and 'she' for the second. However, it is explained at the front of the book that this is for clarity of who is doing what and not intended to describe any role models. It didn't worry me and female colleagues did not have any problem with this.

All in all, a very useful and up to date book packed with information and personal anecdotes, and I would not be surprised to see it being read at crags around the country.


Rock climbing book ideal for all, 08 Jan 2008
Pete Hill's 'Rock Climbing' book has given me loads more information than other similar titles. It is written in his usual, no-nonsense fashion, and has loads of practical information and tips. Pete has also added a few personal tales in seperate boxes, such as starting out climbing with his Mum's washing line, or leading a route after forgetting all the kit! These sound terrifying, but just go to improve the validity of the very good technical information that is included all the way through the text.

I like the fact that all of the technical illustrations are done with very good photographs, as these give a clear representation of what is in the text. There are many other photographs that are quite inspirational, as well as a short section at the back on where to go climbing.

All in all I highly recommend this book. I do not consider myself to be a beginner, but have found it very worth while reading through and finding many things to 'tidy up' my technique. It would be a great companion to anyone starting out, taking a climbing course, or as a brush-up for you if you have been climbing for a while. Very good indeed.

Full of valuable information, 22 May 2005
Having climbed 2 big wall routes on El Cap, I would still re-read this book before going out for another route. Excellent descriptions of the most efficient aid climbing systems, how to haul, how to clean etc. First time you clean a traversing pitch you will be pleased you read this book! If you want to do a wall then beg, borrow, steal (or better buy) this book. Makes for a good read on the flight to California.

Good reference, 27 Jan 1998
The best way to learn to aid and climb big walls with the exception of going out there and doing it. A good reference for beginners. The illustrations are a little corny. Looked like a throw back to the 1970's. Illustrations probably lifted from "Climbing Big Walls," edited by Mike Strassman.

More in-depth book than any in its kind I've seen, 18 Jan 2006
I don't agree with the guys who refer the book as incomplete overview or lobsided to sport climbing only.
All mental, biological and physical approaches are mentioned and discussed there. You can apply a lot of the principles to many aspects of your climbing. I've never come across any training books in english that cover so much in depth of the fundamentals.
I live in Euorpe and I don't see any effort of the authors trying to amalgamate the European and American methodolgies. The authors simple apply their scientific knowledge and findings into their sport. That's nothing wrong with that.
You have to find me a french publication that betters this one to convince me otherwise.

Title should read - Performance Sport climbing, 08 Apr 1999
OK it IS a good book, well written and clearly illustrated with examples, but where it falls down is the focus it places on pure gymnastic ability, strength and power. There is little said of the need for psychological control, building up mental ability in line with physical ability. This is fine if you are going to spend your life clipping bolts or top roping plastic, however if you are ever going to climb trad or (God forbid climb on a mountain)there are other aspects that require consideration. Good book, buy it, become strong. Do not expect to go out to the crag and be able to use all that strenght.

An interesting, though wholly incomplete overview, 16 Dec 1998
Performance Rock Climbing was clearly written by Udo Neumann, in an attempt to capitalize on Goddard's brief success on the North American climbing scene. The training methods suggested in this book are the most efficient available, yet are not developped to their fullest possible extent. In brief, this book serves as an introduction to anyone wanting to improve.

The problem with training for climbing in North America is twofold. 1. North Americans would rather take a pill to get better than invest a lot of time into something. As proof, look at adds that offer the shortest possible delay before wieght loss, or muscle building. All products, including this book, are aimed at a limited growth over a short period of time. 2. Climbing in North America still invokes feelings of freedom and rebellion. Training for climbing is not about seeing nature, or being "out there." It is about discipline, and sacrifice. It is work.

Performance Rock climbing is a blatant attempt to integrate years of European training methodolgy with the American ideology. As such, it fails in its mission. It does not instruct enough on the uses and benefits of periodization nor cycles. It "dumbs down" the physiological aspects for a less receptive American audience, while using language that attempts to make it appear "scientific." Anyone capable of understanding the language used will quickly see through its double message.

If you are interested in serious training, there are many options available to you. Have you ever wondered why the French dominate the climbing arena? Maybe, if you care, look into some of their publications.

High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, 12 Jan 1998
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities, 06 Sep 1997
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for climbing. Some of their writing is a bit scientific (sounding more like a college textbook at times), but they offset this with amusing anecdotes and cartoons. Lots of great 'beta' on technique as well as being a essential training guide for all areas and levels of rock sport.

Enjoyed this since I first got it, 14 Aug 2008
This book came out when I was still at university in Leeds. It rapidly became my personal favourite of the Lake District guides.

It's a great combination of concise route description, with enough detail to find your way, but enough also left to the imagination. The route descriptions are both evocative and practical.

The pictures in the first edition were excellent by standards of the time. They certainly got me wanting to get out in the fells. They now look a bit dated, and modern standards are higher.

This book helped me and many others to get to know the Lake District better, and it is still a super guidebook. I'm basing my review on the first edition, and I'm glad to see it's been updated now. Thank you to Bob Allen for writing it.

The book continues to help walkers get to know the Lake District fells better.

On High Lakeland Fells, 31 Jul 2005
I searched high and low for an original copy of this book. It is the best book of high fells walks you can find. Bob Allen's descriptions are fantastic and as well as classic lakeland walks there are many alternatives for the more adventurous scrambler. I cannot reccomend this book highly enough.

Superb selection but suspect statistics, 11 Oct 2008
I welcome the theme of `The Long Routes' and with only a few exceptions I agree with Robin Ashcroft's selection of climbs in both the Lake District and Snowdonia, and most climbers would predictably choose something similar. Differences of opinion should not be a source of criticism as choice is subjective, but I am objectively uneasy about how the book is presented. After introductions the book starts with adequate explanations on format (though even here the subsequent use of shading on topos is overlooked), but it continues with sections attempting guidance on equipment and techniques where it may have been better to omit such instruction instead of treating it in a meagre and unbalanced way. Equally, pronouncements on conservation and ethics are limited and out of place. A more helpful position for advice would be within the chapters for each route, but here the author appears blasé about protection. Though he frequently advises gear placements he is not always specific, and he infers how easy it is - sometimes when it isn't (as first pitch of Needle Ridge).

More consequential is the claim that climbs included in `The Long Routes' "provide the natural next step for the adventurous scrambler", yet inclusion of grades from `Diff.' to `Hard Severe' seems too all-embracing and surely goes too far. There is a devastating difference between scrambling or tackling a route like Main Wall on Cyrn Las or Bridge's Route on Esk Buttress (wrongly labelled Bridger's Route). Also I believe some grades are incorrectly stated. Jones' Route Direct on Scafell Pinnacle is `VS' and maybe Slingsby's Chimney at `V.Diff.' is more appropriate to the book's philosophy. North Climb on Pillar may be more of a character classic than North East Climb and it could be more readily graded with reference to `Diff.' plus alternatives to final pitch. And if `Severes' are to be promoted then omission of Murray's Route on Dow Crag is inexcusable (sorry - I said there was no disagreement over choice). At the opposite end of the grade argument I rate Atlantic Slab on Carnedd y Filiast as a scramble to be done in boots, and I shrink from Ashcroft's unworthy advice to "just use your sticky soles".

I found some route details difficult to follow and wonder why it was felt necessary to rewrite many of the traditional accounts in Fell & Rock and Climbers' Club definitive guidebooks (copyright ?). Perhaps there is no cause for denunciation of Ashcroft's division of climbs into pitches, but his advice does not always equate with my own experience. Even so a glaring omission is not to state lengths of pitches. Happily many of the selected routes are well-scratched and easy to fathom, and stances are obvious, but without quantified pitch division and with almost cryptic description I defy anyone other than the cognoscenti to understand some of the route particulars - like Middlefell Buttress in Langdale. Also some of the sketches are insufficient for recognition of features, and others are misleading - an example is Gillercombe Buttress (where to make matters worse the final "tricky traverse" referred to with the second pitch cuts back left - not right as described!).

Descent details could be another source for fault-findin