Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.



Book of Surfing review, 06 Sep 2008
Awesome book! Totally recommended! I am a sufing newbie but this is really accessible, totally absorbing, reads like a magazine but full of info. Loved it! Buy it!

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.



Book of Surfing review, 06 Sep 2008
Awesome book! Totally recommended! I am a sufing newbie but this is really accessible, totally absorbing, reads like a magazine but full of info. Loved it! Buy it!

Perfect guide to finding the perfect wave - and place to sleep!, 07 Dec 2007
Perfect companion to planning any surf trip. Well written and not dumbed down or pretentious (which is something a lot of surf books suffer from)


Awesome, 15 Nov 2006
A truly inspiring book. Each break is brought to life with the right balance of know-how, stories, history and beautiful photography. This is essential reading for anyone with more than a passing interest in the surf potential of the planet.

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.



Book of Surfing review, 06 Sep 2008
Awesome book! Totally recommended! I am a sufing newbie but this is really accessible, totally absorbing, reads like a magazine but full of info. Loved it! Buy it!

Perfect guide to finding the perfect wave - and place to sleep!, 07 Dec 2007
Perfect companion to planning any surf trip. Well written and not dumbed down or pretentious (which is something a lot of surf books suffer from)


Awesome, 15 Nov 2006
A truly inspiring book. Each break is brought to life with the right balance of know-how, stories, history and beautiful photography. This is essential reading for anyone with more than a passing interest in the surf potential of the planet.

Basic level stuff, 22 Aug 2007
As a previous reviewer has commented, this is basic level stuff. If you're looking for a book with insightful info, programmes to follow and something that can offer more than a high-school gym class in terms of stretches and exercises, this is NOT the book for you. If however, you've never really done much sport before then this is probably a good intro. I don't think it's particularly suited to Surfing per se, and i'd actually recommend a swimming book or something instead. Buy at your own risk!

Basic Stuff, 23 Jun 2007
Very basic. If you already have experience of basic training principles then this book isnt for you.

Very useful book, 19 Mar 2004
This book is great and has helped my surfing and general fitness level alot. The book is split into three sections: Stretching, Strength Building & Endurance Training. Additionally, the book provides example work-out programmes and schedules using the techniques in the book.

The exercise techniques are very well written, easy to follow and the pictures demonstrate correct position. The techniques are divided between those that can be done at home and in the gym. But the book is written such that a full workout can be done at home without additional equipment.

The only slightly weak area is the endurance training because it isn't as detailed as the stretching and strength building sections. However, this isn't really a problem because, as the book says, the best way to build endurance is to get out and paddle.

So in conclusion, great book, I feel like a steam-boat paddling around and it's definately helped my technique because I feel much more supple. On a side note, it's also good as a general fitness book and my wife (who doesn't surf) uses it too.

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.



Book of Surfing review, 06 Sep 2008
Awesome book! Totally recommended! I am a sufing newbie but this is really accessible, totally absorbing, reads like a magazine but full of info. Loved it! Buy it!

Perfect guide to finding the perfect wave - and place to sleep!, 07 Dec 2007
Perfect companion to planning any surf trip. Well written and not dumbed down or pretentious (which is something a lot of surf books suffer from)


Awesome, 15 Nov 2006
A truly inspiring book. Each break is brought to life with the right balance of know-how, stories, history and beautiful photography. This is essential reading for anyone with more than a passing interest in the surf potential of the planet.

Basic level stuff, 22 Aug 2007
As a previous reviewer has commented, this is basic level stuff. If you're looking for a book with insightful info, programmes to follow and something that can offer more than a high-school gym class in terms of stretches and exercises, this is NOT the book for you. If however, you've never really done much sport before then this is probably a good intro. I don't think it's particularly suited to Surfing per se, and i'd actually recommend a swimming book or something instead. Buy at your own risk!

Basic Stuff, 23 Jun 2007
Very basic. If you already have experience of basic training principles then this book isnt for you.

Very useful book, 19 Mar 2004
This book is great and has helped my surfing and general fitness level alot. The book is split into three sections: Stretching, Strength Building & Endurance Training. Additionally, the book provides example work-out programmes and schedules using the techniques in the book.

The exercise techniques are very well written, easy to follow and the pictures demonstrate correct position. The techniques are divided between those that can be done at home and in the gym. But the book is written such that a full workout can be done at home without additional equipment.

The only slightly weak area is the endurance training because it isn't as detailed as the stretching and strength building sections. However, this isn't really a problem because, as the book says, the best way to build endurance is to get out and paddle.

So in conclusion, great book, I feel like a steam-boat paddling around and it's definately helped my technique because I feel much more supple. On a side note, it's also good as a general fitness book and my wife (who doesn't surf) uses it too.

A Surfing book for Surfers , 10 Apr 2008
It's a great book; it definitely shows what the English coast has to offer and how the breaks play a part in shaping not only our boards but the people that ride them. Surfing can play an influential role in culture and creates some fascinating personalities its great to hear about the Kelly Slater's and Nat Young's of the British surfing scene.

A broad, thoughtful and vivid picture of the UK and Ireland surf scene, 01 Apr 2008
As two fellow reviewers, D. Yarrow and James Bulpett, and Alex Wade himself have pointed out, this is not a book documenting an extensive Britain and Ireland surfari by an expert surfer who goes from punting air reverses off of perfect Norfolk wedges, to charging heavy Thurso East. Rather the author is a surfer of intermediate ability who has played to his strengths as a writer and journalist in writing a book which paints a broad, comprehensive, thoughtful and vivid picture of the UK and Ireland surf scene, by bringing the personal opinions, experiences and life stories of numerous British and Irish surfers (e.g. The Gill, Robyn Davies, Iain Battrick, Chris Noble, Duncan Scott, John Adams etc), as well as his own, in order to illustrate and explore the many interesting and diverse aspects of surfing in Britain and Ireland.

Sure the standard inspiring surf mag fodder of break descriptions, surf comps and epic sessions is included and more than done justice too, thanks to Wades ability as a journalist...

`Love Hodel was impressed. `Man, when it's on that wave is pretty damn perfect,' said the 34-year-old Hawaiian, his blue eyes lost in awe. `Maybe not as powerful as Hawaiian surf but good, really good.' Thanks to the O'Neill Highland open, Hodel was undergoing his first experience of the surf at Thurso East' (p309)

...and refreshingly the accounts of surfing in the UK and Ireland are not isolated to the voices of the minority of expert surfers;

`Before I knew it a hesitant turn of the board had become a committed paddle for glorious green-blue right-hander...I felt the surge of raw oceanic power, knew I had the wave and leapt to my feet. The drop seemed unfeasibly steep but I made it, bending my knees and bottom turning to race back up the face...And then I pulled off a move I'd never even attempted before...a floater...The sensation was one of delicious weightlessness'- Alex Wade recounting a memorable session at 6ft Watergate

However what particularly sets Surf Nation apart from other books on surfing is Wade's commitment to giving as broad a view of his subject matter as he can, by consistently moving off the well beaten surf-writing track in all of the books twenty-two chapters. For example he references quite a few non-surf films, such as 1973s Badlands to shed alternative light on particular surfing areas (In Badlands case, St Agnes and it surrounding coastline), explores how surfing has been used to improve the lives of socially disadvantaged children and also illustrates how particularly aggressive surf travellers/tourists in Ireland share much in common with the colonising actions of the Spanish Conquestadors and Britains infamous East India Trading Company;

`I hate to say it but the worst things is the ...overseas surfers. We Irish are a mellow crew and you won't find any localism from us...But what's starting to get to me is paddling out at Easkey, or another wave I've been surfing all my life, and being given the eye by some guy from Cornwall' -Sligo local Mark Walton (p255)

Indeed such is the breadth of the topics covered here that it is clear that Wades main challenge was to bring them together into a cohesive whole with a logical order. He attempts to solve this problem by basing each chapter in a particular surfing area (though why is mid and north Wales, or the BUSA surf nationals not included?), by having a number of key people and related storylines regularly popping up throughout (A lot of people he interviews have met Zed Layson, but will he surf Thurso East? Everyone loves the elusive Robyn Davies and The Gill, but will Wade ever track these two elusive characters down? ) and by having a somewhat forced summary forming part of the final chapter.

Despite these three mechanisms, Surf Nation at points does feel like it consists of fragments of writing (albeit fragments of substantial, meaty, high quality) all crammed together into one volume. But due to its very ambitious and broad aim of `finding out about the characters who make up surfing on our shores and the great waves they surf'' (Wade on his blog- timesonline.co.uk/surfnation), this fragmentation was almost certainly inevitable and is actually appropriately reflective of Britain and Irelands fragmented surf communities and organizations.


Surfing Development UK, 18 Dec 2007
I read this book in 3 hours whilst waiting to get into a music festival. During down time I returned and made notes on numerous references to British surfing and the future of our surf nation.

I could not believe what I was reading at first, someone had actually written what surfers and those involved in the Industry actually thought was good and bad in many areas. I was more interested in the areas relating to surfing tourism, surf schools and surf contests.

I contacted the BSA (British Surfing Association) and gave a presentation at their annual surf schools and surf coaching seminar based on 'surf nation' bringing up many of the points raised in the book.

This book is what the surfing establishment has needed to help it focus on the wrong and right way of delivering a 'surfing for everyone' policy through a strategic sports development plan. As currently it is does not exist, but, one could argue that is British sport in general.

Well done Alex, I hope you can bring yourself to go big and write another one in the near future.

Stop whining!, 18 Dec 2007
Travelling from his home breaks of Cornwall to spots as wild as the west of Ireland and the Orkneys, as unexpected as East Anglia and as off-the-wall as South Wales, Alex Wade encounters Britain's `real' surfers and finds out what drives them to forge a life linked intimately to swell, tide and season.

"It's the most blissful feeling...in the world," claims Irish big wave surfer John McCarthy - which is kind of how you'd expect a surfer to respond. But Wade gets beyond the predictable sound bite to uncover the ethos and raison d'etre behind this surf addiction, thanks to a disarming knack of getting those with whom he discusses this esoteric sport to open up and let us see the addict within.

That's not to say all is rosy in the surf lineup. Plenty of surfers express their alarm at the sellout that's such a feature of modern UK surfing. But underneath all this, time and again Wade uncovers the genuine love of wave riding that drives `real' surfers to keep answering the call of the sea.

There's a thread connecting all these people which runs throughout the book - all they want to do is ride waves, irrespective of how good, cold or remote they may be, and as a surfer it left me feeling enthused to get out into the waves again. And for non-surfers, Surf Nation is that rare beast, a book that really does give you some idea of the whys and wherefores of paddling out into British waves.

Ignore some of the whining reviews you'll see here - I've been surfing UK waves for almost 30 years and this book comes as near as anything to uncovering what a real Surf Nation the UK is.


Unqualified voice, 06 Dec 2007
I share a similar opinion to another reviewer who was left feeling "cold" by this book. I have a reasonably extensive surf library and have surfed for 20 years and it is obvious from the outset that this author is not a voice of authority on his chosen subject. Arguably, nor is author Andy Martin, but he is at least convincing in his portrayal of the sport - Wade is not.
There is nothing more frustrating to any person dedicated to an activity, than someone latching on to that thing which they care deeply about and not even getting the facts right (Joel Fitzgerald a local Croyde surfer! Not in my lifetime, Narrabeen perhaps, but not North Devon), it's an instant irritant and I instantly lost faith in the author and his book.
What was also irritating was his obvious desire to claim a "surf lit" title by adding in his movie reviews at any slight and vague opportunity. I'm not averse to any new slant on surfing, but frankly it smacked of desperation and left me wondering what he really wanted to be writing about.
On a more positive note, the portrayals of the personalities he included in the book were insightful and honest, and he clearly had good intentions in the writing of this book. It's not a poor book, but to me it's more surf guide than surf lit.

Pack your bags and board!, 16 Dec 2007
A very entertaining read. The book gives a great insight into travelling and reaching personal goals whether you're a surfer or not.

Inspirational stuff, 30 Aug 2007
I have read a few surfin yarns in my time, and this one really stands out from the rest. It perfectly captures the obsessive devotion to surfing which many of us suffer from, the author describes his sessions vividly and believably . The title is a bit cheesy, and I approached this book with scepticism, but it was on the money from start to finish, I was unable to put it down, except to go for a surf! Motivational stuff!

Terrific read, 100% recommended, 14 May 2007
This book is killer! It's been said already in most reviews here, but it really does make you want to pack your boards and go an experience something new. It makes you want to surf some new waves, meet some new people and eat some new food. Well travelled surfers will probably learn a thing or two about the countries they have been to, I know I did, and new surfers can dream about experiences yet to come.

a fantastic read, 27 Mar 2007
This is a book i just couldnt put down.. As a surfer myself and having read countless of surf stories by other writers in surf magaines and books, I have to applaud Tom's style.. its not easy to write about the stoke and joy that surfing brings to you because its such an intricate feeling which is hard to describe but Tom nails this from the very first page.

Surfers can relate to what he writes about, for example, Jeffreys Bay was the one wave that Tom felt he should ride before he dies and made it his life mission to surf there, Mine was exactly the same but the location being G-Land (in Indonesia). So in alot of ways, the book made me think back to my previous surfing experiences and although similar in some ways the writer's, made me appreciate how much surfing has enriched my life. Needless to say i Surf alot more often now!

its a must read for any surfer, you'l be surprised by how much you can relate to it and its like reading a book about yourself at times!

10/10



Amazing, surf writing as good as it gets!!, 15 Feb 2007
I loved this book. First it was writen by a Welsh guy so (if your British) you already feel more in touch. Second, it really captures the life of a devoted surfer, searching for that perfect wave. Every step of the book, Tom (the authur) managed to capture not just what it's like to surf but also to travel to different countries, with different cultures, different climates, different cautions but not through the eyes of the travelling masses who, as Tom says, just seem to be travelling to compete with all the other travellers, who's done this who's done that blah blah blah! He told the story through the eyes of a surfer travelling around world class surfing destinations and really appreciating the places he visited and also explained a bit of the history of each destination, from the cold of Northern Scotland to the tropics. It's not just for surfers either anybody can enjoy this book, he manages to explain any surfing terms of which a none surfer might not be familiar with (it even has a glossary in the back with definitions of some of the 'surf' terms used in the book). Basically this book comes highly recommended - but be warned, if your having a bit of a wave drought, or short of cash, then this book could leave you climbing the walls for the next trip!!

the best book for understanding waves, 19 Apr 2007
after surfing for many years i have a fair knowledge of weather and how waves are created but this book really helped me take a step up in my understanding. Easy to understand and a must buy for anyone interested in wave creation.

This will totally enlighten your surfing!, 21 Dec 2005
Once your hooked on a sport you need something to keep taking you further, this is what you need to take you from going to the beach and going... oh its flat but the bbc said 2foot choppy, too planning your surf trips a week in advance... to the time of the day to go. It will teach you what makes waves, what makes good waves and riding, why certain times of the day are better than others... your mind is the limit and this will take you a long long way.

Very valuble to any surfer or water go'er and a real interesting read. And thats from a bodyboarder! happy riding

Whoa!, 08 Aug 2003
This book i thought was going to be full of incoherent mumblings about fathoms and linear models but instead of a physics lessons i got very in depth, easy to comprehend information about waves. this helped me, as a surfer, understand the waves and which in turn brought my surfing to a whole new level. I fully recommend this book to anyone who has the slightest interest in the sea, whether you are a surfer of just a gazing out to sea kind of person!

an essential book for anyone interested in surf culture!!!, 28 Nov 2008
The story of surfing's great anti-hero is a must read. Insightful look into the personality and mind of this icon. Buy it!!

fascinating reading, 27 Nov 2008
For consumers of surf culture, this book is a must read, giving insight into both the mind of Dora (although it appears everyone knew a different side to this multi-faceted and wily character) and the times in which he was surfing. A good narrative is combined with insightful quotes and comments from those you felt knew him best.

"the greatest surfer that ever lived", 14 May 2008
Miki Dora spent his life looking for the perfect wave.

Dora has been described as the greatest surfer that ever lived. Even after his death his nickname of "Da Cat" still appears grafittied on the wall of a Malibu Beach. For twenty years the dashing and dark Dora dominated the emerging California surf culture of the fifties. A rebel to the core, Dora was graceful and aggressive on wave and land (hence being called Da Cat). He was worshipped for his style and attitude; he was cursed for his methods of maintaining his idyllic lifestyle - scamming and even stealing his friend's credit cards if he had to.

Then Hollywood crashed the beach party with the Gidget movies. Suddenly every Dick and Jane wanted to surf and the money grabbing surf industry moved in. Eden was now over for Miki and he fled America disillusioned, the FBI hot on his tail for a string of fraud charges. Thus began a world tour in search of the perfect wave before Dora was forced to return to the US to spend a year in jail. Following his release he lived out his life in places such as New Zealand, France and South Africa, leaving a trail of awe and deceit until he finally returned to California to die of cancer.

David Rensin, an experienced and accomplished US journalist who has interviewed and written on just about everyone in Hollywood has done fine research with hundreds of people who knew and had contact with Dora over his life and Rensin lets them tell the story of this enigmatic character.

It's a book not just about surfing and a surfer. It's a story about a birth and death of a culture, of someone who is not prepared to sell out to the system no matter what the cost.

The book describes Miki's many alleged exploits that include stunt doubling Elvis Presley in a movie, mooning the judges at a surf contest, snogging Barbara Streisand at a Hollywood party, buying jewellery with a stolen cheque book in South America, spending time in the same prison as serial killer Charles Manson, turning down film and book offers, looking for uncut diamonds in South West Africa and sending "a friend" some his excrement in the post.

I read the book because I'm a surfer but the man's audacious life was so beyond the bounds of what most of us would consider normal it would interest many readers beyond the beach and board.

Hollywood seems to think so. They bought the film rights of the book before it was released and Leonardo de Caprio is planned to play the charming and cheating Miki Dora in the same spirit as Catch Me if You Can. The movie could succeed on a big scale. Miki's life was a story rich with character, conflict and climax and even an unexpected twist at the end.

Miki may not have found the perfect wave of heaven but he had one hell of a time searching for it.



Book of Surfing review, 06 Sep 2008
Awesome book! Totally recommended! I am a sufing newbie but this is really accessible, totally absorbing, reads like a magazine but full of info. Loved it! Buy it!

Perfect guide to finding the perfect wave - and place to sleep!, 07 Dec 2007
Perfect companion to planning any surf trip. Well written and not dumbed down or pretentious (which is something a lot of surf books suffer from)


Awesome, 15 Nov 2006
A truly inspiring book. Each break is brought to life with the right balance of know-how, stories, history and beautiful photography. This is essential reading for anyone with more than a passing interest in the surf potential of the planet.

Basic level stuff, 22 Aug 2007
As a previous reviewer has commented, this is basic level stuff. If you're looking for a book with insightful info, programmes to follow and something that can offer more than a high-school gym class in terms of stretches and exercises, this is NOT the book for you. If however, you've never really done much sport before then this is probably a good intro. I don't think it's particularly suited to Surfing per se, and i'd actually recommend a swimming book or something instead. Buy at your own risk!

Basic Stuff, 23 Jun 2007
Very basic. If you already have experience of basic training principles then this book isnt for you.

Very useful book, 19 Mar 2004
This book is great and has helped my surfing and general fitness level alot. The book is split into three sections: Stretching, Strength Building & Endurance Training. Additionally, the book provides example work-out programmes and schedules using the techniques in the book.

The exercise techniques are very well written, easy to follow and the pictures demonstrate correct position. The techniques are divided between those that can be done at home and in the gym. But the book is written such that a full workout can be done at home without additional equipment.

The only slightly weak area is the endurance training because it isn't as detailed as the stretching and strength building sections. However, this isn't really a problem because, as the book says, the best way to build endurance is to get out and paddle.

So in conclusion, great book, I feel like a steam-boat paddling around and it's definately helped my technique because I feel much more supple. On a side note, it's also good as a general fitness book and my wife (who doesn't surf) uses it too.

A Surfing book for Surfers , 10 Apr 2008
It's a great book; it definitely shows what the English coast has to offer and how the breaks play a part in shaping not only our boards but the people that ride them. Surfing can play an influential role in culture and creates some fascinating personalities its great to hear about the Kelly Slater's and Nat Young's of the British surfing scene.

A broad, thoughtful and vivid picture of the UK and Ireland surf scene, 01 Apr 2008
As two fellow reviewers, D. Yarrow and James Bulpett, and Alex Wade himself have pointed out, this is not a book documenting an extensive Britain and Ireland surfari by an expert surfer who goes from punting air reverses off of perfect Norfolk wedges, to charging heavy Thurso East. Rather the author is a surfer of intermediate ability who has played to his strengths as a writer and journalist in writing a book which paints a broad, comprehensive, thoughtful and vivid picture of the UK and Ireland surf scene, by bringing the personal opinions, experiences and life stories of numerous British and Irish surfers (e.g. The Gill, Robyn Davies, Iain Battrick, Chris Noble, Duncan Scott, John Adams etc), as well as his own, in order to illustrate and explore the many interesting and diverse aspects of surfing in Britain and Ireland.

Sure the standard inspiring surf mag fodder of break descriptions, surf comps and epic sessions is included and more than done justice too, thanks to Wades ability as a journalist...

`Love Hodel was impressed. `Man, when it's on that wave is pretty damn perfect,' said the 34-year-old Hawaiian, his blue eyes lost in awe. `Maybe not as powerful as Hawaiian surf but good, really good.' Thanks to the O'Neill Highland open, Hodel was undergoing his first experience of the surf at Thurso East' (p309)

...and refreshingly the accounts of surfing in the UK and Ireland are not isolated to the voices of the minority of expert surfers;

`Before I knew it a hesitant turn of the board had become a committed paddle for glorious green-blue right-hander...I felt the surge of raw oceanic power, knew I had the wave and leapt to my feet. The drop seemed unfeasibly steep but I made it, bending my knees and bottom turning to race back up the face...And then I pulled off a move I'd never even attempted before...a floater...The sensation was one of delicious weightlessness'- Alex Wade recounting a memorable session at 6ft Watergate

However what particularly sets Surf Nation apart from other books on surfing is Wade's commitment to giving as broad a view of his subject matter as he can, by consistently moving off the well beaten surf-writing track in all of the books twenty-two chapters. For example he references quite a few non-surf films, such as 1973s Badlands to shed alternative light on particular surfing areas (In Badlands case, St Agnes and it surrounding coastline), explores how surfing has been used to improve the lives of socially disadvantaged children and also illustrates how particularly aggressive surf travellers/tourists in Ireland share much in common with the colonising actions of the Spanish Conquestadors and Britains infamous East India Trading Company;

`I hate to say it but the worst things is the ...overseas surfers. We Irish are a mellow crew and you won't find any localism from us...But what's starting to get to me is paddling out at Easkey, or another wave I've been surfing all my life, and being given the eye by some guy from Cornwall' -Sligo local Mark Walton (p255)

Indeed such is the breadth of the topics covered here that it is clear that Wades main challenge was to bring them together into a cohesive whole with a logical order. He attempts to solve this problem by basing each chapter in a particular surfing area (though why is mid and north Wales, or the BUSA surf nationals not included?), by having a number of key people and related storylines regularly popping up throughout (A lot of people he interviews have met Zed Layson, but will he surf Thurso East? Everyone loves the elusive Robyn Davies and The Gill, but will Wade ever track these two elusive characters down? ) and by having a somewhat forced summary forming part of the final chapter.

Despite these three mechanisms, Surf Nation at points does feel like it consists of fragments of writing (albeit fragments of substantial, meaty, high quality) all crammed together into one volume. But due to its very ambitious and broad aim of `finding out about the characters who make up surfing on our shores and the great waves they surf'' (Wade on his blog- timesonline.co.uk/surfnation), this fragmentation was almost certainly inevitable and is actually appropriately reflective of Britain and Irelands fragmented surf communities and organizations.


Surfing Development UK, 18 Dec 2007
I read this book in 3 hours whilst waiting to get into a music festival. During down time I returned and made notes on numerous references to British surfing and the future of our surf nation.

I could not believe what I was reading at first, someone had actually written what surfers and those involved in the Industry actually thought was good and bad in many areas. I was more interested in the areas relating to surfing tourism, surf schools and surf contests.

I contacted the BSA (British Surfing Association) and gave a presentation at their annual surf schools and surf coaching seminar based on 'surf nation' bringing up many of the points raised in the book.

This book is what the surfing establishment has needed to help it focus on the wrong and right way of delivering a 'surfing for everyone' policy through a strategic sports development plan. As currently it is does not exist, but, one could argue that is British sport in general.

Well done Alex, I hope you can bring yourself to go big and write another one in the near future.

Stop whining!, 18 Dec 2007
Travelling from his home breaks of Cornwall to spots as wild as the west of Ireland and the Orkneys, as unexpected as East Anglia and as off-the-wall as South Wales, Alex Wade encounters Britain's `real' surfers and finds out what drives them to forge a life linked intimately to swell, tide and season.

"It's the most blissful feeling...in the world," claims Irish big wave surfer John McCarthy - which is kind of how you'd expect a surfer to respond. But Wade gets beyond the predictable sound bite to uncover the ethos and raison d'etre behind this surf addiction, thanks to a disarming knack of getting those with whom he discusses this esoteric sport to open up and let us see the addict within.

That's not to say all is rosy in the surf lineup. Plenty of surfers express their alarm at the sellout that's such a feature of modern UK surfing. But underneath all this, time and again Wade uncovers the genuine love of wave riding that drives `real' surfers to keep answering the call of the sea.

There's a thread connecting all these people which runs throughout the book - all they want to do is ride waves, irrespective of how good, cold or remote they may be, and as a surfer it left me feeling enthused to get out into the waves again. And for non-surfers, Surf Nation is that rare beast, a book that really does give you some idea of the whys and wherefores of paddling out into British waves.

Ignore some of the whining reviews you'll see here - I've been surfing UK waves for almost 30 years and this book comes as near as anything to uncovering what a real Surf Nation the UK is.


Unqualified voice, 06 Dec 2007
I share a similar opinion to another reviewer who was left feeling "cold" by this book. I have a reasonably extensive surf library and have surfed for 20 years and it is obvious from the outset that this author is not a voice of authority on his chosen subject. Arguably, nor is author Andy Martin, but he is at least convincing in his portrayal of the sport - Wade is not.
There is nothing more frustrating to any person dedicated to an activity, than someone latching on to that thing which they care deeply about and not even getting the facts right (Joel Fitzgerald a local Croyde surfer! Not in my lifetime, Narrabeen perhaps, but not North Devon), it's an instant irritant and I instantly lost faith in the author and his book.
What was also irritating was his obvious desire to claim a "surf lit" title by adding in his movie reviews at any slight and vague opportunity. I'm not averse to any new slant on surfing, but frankly it smacked of desperation and left me wondering what he really wanted to be writing about.
On a more positive note, the portrayals of the personalities he included in the book were insightful and honest, and he clearly had good intentions in the writing of this book. It's not a poor book, but to me it's more surf guide than surf lit.

Top surf literature., 15 Jan 2008
This is a fantastic story, set in one of surfing's most intruiging arenas - the North Shore of Hawaii. It doesn't really matter whether the author has lightly sprinkled some 'story dust' over the events, because it's a great read anyway.

The rivalry between Foo and Bradshaw is brilliantly built up, and escalates in an inevitable manner, and the descriptions of surfing and the Hawaiian big wave culture keep Andy Martin's books right up there with the best surf lit. A real page turner.

Alongside 'Riding the Magic Carpet' this is one of the best surf books to come out in ages, and highly recommended. Read it and enjoy!

Well worth the bucks, 22 May 2007
This is a truly great book. It keeps the interest with good and humourous writing, but the tale obviously has a strong thread of sadness throughout.
Brilliant addition to surf literature.