In the mid-1970s, an American graduate student in anthropology joined the ranks of white-powdered geisha in Kyoto, Japan. Liza Dalby took the name Ichigiku and apprenticed in the famed Pontocho district, trailing behind "older sisters" bemused by this long-legged Westerner intent on learning their arts and customs. In Geisha, this observant ethnographer paints an intoxicating picture of the "flower and willow world" to which she gained entry. "Why are you studying geisha?" asks one slightly belligerent older sister. "Geisha are no different from anybody else." Not quite, says Dalby dryly, pointing out that geisha and wives play utterly divergent, though complementary, roles in traditional Japanese society. "Geisha are supposed to be sexy where wives are sober, artistic where wives are humdrum, and witty where wives are serious." While hardly feminists, they reap freedoms unknown to other women. Dalby illustrates broader cultural differences, too, with a million tiny details about boisterous customers, how many hundred-weight of tabi (split-toed socks) geishas go through, what defines iki (chic), why maiko (young apprentices) are drawn to the life, and what geisha wear, from the skin out. Acknowledging that her growing personal stake in the masquerade prevented objectivity, Dalby frees the reader to enjoy a fluid and fascinating look at one aspect of Japanese culture. --Francesca Coltrera

Geisha, 19 Jul 2008
In `Geisha' Liza Dalby has managed to write a book studying the lives of Geisha and how their art developed, whilst at the same time making it flow like a novel. This book is an in-depth look at Geisha life and also touches upon general life in Japan as well, which makes for fascinating and captivating reading. It is illustrated throughout with photos and a few charts/graphs to demonstrate points made. Liza is the only (at the time of writing) foreigner to be introduced into the Geisha world and this affords her, and us, with a unique insight into the traditions and lifestyle of Geisha. She writes with genuine humour and with sympathy for the lives Geisha lead and the sacrifices they make for their art and this is passed on to the reader. I found myself completely immersed in the lifestyles and aspirations of those described and had a deeper understanding of Geisha life as a result. An informative read, written in a beautiful way, what more can you ask for?

A wonderful peek into a secret world, 14 Jun 2007
It is probably worth mentioning after reading previous reviews of this book, it is NOT fiction like Memoirs Of A Geisha. This is a true life account of an American women living amongst Geisha. Liza Dalby's writing brings to life the secret 'flower and willow' world before the readers very eyes. It is a touching and personal account with well researched facts peppered amongst Liza's own experiences. I would recommend this book to anyone, who like me has a huge interest in the rarely viewed world of the Geisha.

Fact, not Fiction!, 27 May 2007
This is a very interesting book that gives a valuable insight into the world of geisha. As a more accessible text based on an anthropologist's study, it achieves an in depth look at history, tradition and the geisha world of thirty years ago from the point of view of an outsider who became accepted into the Pontocho community. It is well written and presented in a format that can be dipped in and out of with ease, with excellent notes, glossary and indexing.

Unlike some other reviewers on this page, I have read and re-read this book, and frequently use it for reference. The background information about such topics as the different geisha districts in Kyoto, geisha names etc. is excellent in helping the reader's greater understanding of the subject.

I would recommend following up this book by reading the autobiography "Geisha of Gion", by Mineko Iwasaki, which is a highly personal account by the leading geisha of the 1960s, in contrast to Dalby's more objective study.

Readers, please remember that Arthur Golden's "Memoirs of a Geisha" is fiction! If you are looking for "racy" fiction, full of vague details about "oriental life", this is NOT the book for you...


An interesting and intelligent insight into this vanishing way of life, 28 May 2006
After reading many reviews of this book, I do feel that people have misunderstood it. Just to get one thing clear, this book isn't some romantic work of fiction like 'Memoirs of a Geisha', it reads more like a text book with some personal experiences thrown in.

I don't think Liza Dalby ever meant to become a geisha in the formal sense, she was there to do research for a dissertation or thesis of some kind on the subject. Many people have pointed out that her attending social occasions as a geisha without having years of training etc makes a mockery of the whole profession. This could not be further from the truth.

Liza Dalby writes with intelligence and emotion and provides the reader with one of the most informative works on the subject that I have encountered. She covers every subject from the history of the geishas, to the instruments they play and how they dress. The book can be quite heavy going at times, but it is worth sticking to. If you are a fan of 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (as I am), then this is certainly worth checking out.

Another book worth checking out is 'Geisha of Gion' by Mineko Iwasaki.

Not a geisha at all, 25 Apr 2006
This book is interesting and certainly has some use in understanding the world of the geisha. However I was disappointed in some respects. The book is very dry, almost like a university dissertation. Of course it shouldn't have been as racey as Golden's book (Memoirs of a Geisha), but she still could have been more eloquent.

Also it is important to mention that Liza Dalby was NOT a geisha. This has either been a bit of nice PR from her publishers, or perhaps from Dalby herself. Although she was allowed to accompany geiko friends to some of their parties to help better understand their world:

a) she never went through the formal processes of becoming a geisha (or maiko) herself, including the years of training.
b) she was not formally associated with any of the okiya or ochaya in Kyoto.
c) she was not formally registered as a geisha with the community authorities.
d) clients were not billed for her attendance at parties.

It may seem exciting to believe that a non-Japanese woman was a geisha, but slapping on some makeup, wearing a kimono and going out into the night is not sufficient. It is unfair to the real geisha and maiko of Japan to continue with this belief, as it belittles the hard work and effort they put in every day.

Instead I would recommend "Geisha: The Secret History of a Vanishing World" by Lesley Downer, as she is more modest about her experiences with the various geisha communities.

Geisha, 19 Jul 2008
In `Geisha' Liza Dalby has managed to write a book studying the lives of Geisha and how their art developed, whilst at the same time making it flow like a novel. This book is an in-depth look at Geisha life and also touches upon general life in Japan as well, which makes for fascinating and captivating reading. It is illustrated throughout with photos and a few charts/graphs to demonstrate points made. Liza is the only (at the time of writing) foreigner to be introduced into the Geisha world and this affords her, and us, with a unique insight into the traditions and lifestyle of Geisha. She writes with genuine humour and with sympathy for the lives Geisha lead and the sacrifices they make for their art and this is passed on to the reader. I found myself completely immersed in the lifestyles and aspirations of those described and had a deeper understanding of Geisha life as a result. An informative read, written in a beautiful way, what more can you ask for?

A wonderful peek into a secret world, 14 Jun 2007
It is probably worth mentioning after reading previous reviews of this book, it is NOT fiction like Memoirs Of A Geisha. This is a true life account of an American women living amongst Geisha. Liza Dalby's writing brings to life the secret 'flower and willow' world before the readers very eyes. It is a touching and personal account with well researched facts peppered amongst Liza's own experiences. I would recommend this book to anyone, who like me has a huge interest in the rarely viewed world of the Geisha.

Fact, not Fiction!, 27 May 2007
This is a very interesting book that gives a valuable insight into the world of geisha. As a more accessible text based on an anthropologist's study, it achieves an in depth look at history, tradition and the geisha world of thirty years ago from the point of view of an outsider who became accepted into the Pontocho community. It is well written and presented in a format that can be dipped in and out of with ease, with excellent notes, glossary and indexing.

Unlike some other reviewers on this page, I have read and re-read this book, and frequently use it for reference. The background information about such topics as the different geisha districts in Kyoto, geisha names etc. is excellent in helping the reader's greater understanding of the subject.

I would recommend following up this book by reading the autobiography "Geisha of Gion", by Mineko Iwasaki, which is a highly personal account by the leading geisha of the 1960s, in contrast to Dalby's more objective study.

Readers, please remember that Arthur Golden's "Memoirs of a Geisha" is fiction! If you are looking for "racy" fiction, full of vague details about "oriental life", this is NOT the book for you...


An interesting and intelligent insight into this vanishing way of life, 28 May 2006
After reading many reviews of this book, I do feel that people have misunderstood it. Just to get one thing clear, this book isn't some romantic work of fiction like 'Memoirs of a Geisha', it reads more like a text book with some personal experiences thrown in.

I don't think Liza Dalby ever meant to become a geisha in the formal sense, she was there to do research for a dissertation or thesis of some kind on the subject. Many people have pointed out that her attending social occasions as a geisha without having years of training etc makes a mockery of the whole profession. This could not be further from the truth.

Liza Dalby writes with intelligence and emotion and provides the reader with one of the most informative works on the subject that I have encountered. She covers every subject from the history of the geishas, to the instruments they play and how they dress. The book can be quite heavy going at times, but it is worth sticking to. If you are a fan of 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (as I am), then this is certainly worth checking out.

Another book worth checking out is 'Geisha of Gion' by Mineko Iwasaki.

Not a geisha at all, 25 Apr 2006
This book is interesting and certainly has some use in understanding the world of the geisha. However I was disappointed in some respects. The book is very dry, almost like a university dissertation. Of course it shouldn't have been as racey as Golden's book (Memoirs of a Geisha), but she still could have been more eloquent.

Also it is important to mention that Liza Dalby was NOT a geisha. This has either been a bit of nice PR from her publishers, or perhaps from Dalby herself. Although she was allowed to accompany geiko friends to some of their parties to help better understand their world:

a) she never went through the formal processes of becoming a geisha (or maiko) herself, including the years of training.
b) she was not formally associated with any of the okiya or ochaya in Kyoto.
c) she was not formally registered as a geisha with the community authorities.
d) clients were not billed for her attendance at parties.

It may seem exciting to believe that a non-Japanese woman was a geisha, but slapping on some makeup, wearing a kimono and going out into the night is not sufficient. It is unfair to the real geisha and maiko of Japan to continue with this belief, as it belittles the hard work and effort they put in every day.

Instead I would recommend "Geisha: The Secret History of a Vanishing World" by Lesley Downer, as she is more modest about her experiences with the various geisha communities.

Very well researched, though quite dated, 14 Apr 2003
As someone who wears kimono almost everyday, I found the book informative and fascinating. The research concerning the history of Kimono developement is absolutely fantastic.
As always, she is most brilliant when dealing with Japanese history rather than modern Japan.

When she starts talking about "modern Japanese society", it often sounds extremely 1970-80s and what she calls "Japanese mentality" to me looks like the characteristics of a generation or two above.
All in all, I find them boring and having no resemblance to the reality as I know it in Japan.
(If you can imagine yourself meeting a Japanese who had been to the UK in 1970s and firmly believed some of the hippies' styles as "essentially British", you would see the slight dizziness I felt in reading some of her comments.)

As for the kimono in our life, although she makes a point that it has more or less completely dissappeared, they are making a new come back. Observations of a foreign culture is a difficult thing. Just like milk, they have sell-by date and once it's gone, they start smelling rather bad.
But perhaps I should not be too harsh on those points.
After all, the book itself was first published quite some time ago. And, as I have already stated at the beginning, the research itself is absolutely brilliantly done.

Fascinating, 04 Apr 2002
If you've read 'Geisha' by Liza Dalby, you'll find this a wonderful exploration of one important aspect and reflection of Japanese, and Geisha culture. The book takes a journey through the history and social meaning of kimono.

Not just a pretty dress, 09 Jan 2002
'Kimono: Fashioning Culture' is much more than the story of a single garment. A dynamic blend of fashion, social history and anthropology, the book traces the evolution of Japanese self-identity through the kimono. Dalby offers a carefully researched history of kimono, mouth-watering excerpts from a seventeenth-century Japanese fashion magazine, interviews with modern kimono wearers, and illustrations that are informative rather than blandly pretty.
Far from being a stable, tradition-bound political and cultural symbol, the kimono has passed in and out of fashion, changing to suit its times and wearers. Dalby deftly dissects the subtle differences-the length of a sleeve, the placement of a collar-that proclaim a woman's age, class, marital status, and personal taste.
Dalby writes about the look and feel of kimono with the authority of personal experience; while researching her doctoral dissertation in a geisha community in Kyoto (the basis of her previous book, Geisha), she wore kimono every day. Indeed, geisha are the only women who still wear kimono on a daily basis, and Dalby points out that the fates of geisha and kimono are intertwined: 'Whether or not a Japanese has ever met a geisha or used her specialized service (and most have not), a feeling remains that Japan would be losing something unique and precious by allowing geisha to disappear. Kimono has a similar hold on the Japanese imagination.' After reading Dalby's insightful account, it is easy to see why.

Great pictures, good insight, 03 Jul 2001
...I have to be honest I bought this book because Liza Dalby wrote the introduction and because Arthur Golden was quoted saying it was a good book. Having read the books by Liza Dalby and Arthur Golden I wanted to see some pictures of kimono and geisha that were more than just pretty pictures. And that's exactly what this book does, it gives you 120 beautiful pictures and a lot of information.

The book is divided into sections: 1. The use of kimono in festivals, 2. Kimono you see in the street, 3. Production (weaving,spinning, dyeing), 4. The commercial side of kimono (fitting, kimono shops), 5. Maiko and Geisha (including some wonderful pictures made at the Nyokoba Geisha Training school in Kyoto), 6. Men wearing kimono (storytellers, sumo referees, tea ushers, monks) 7. Kabuki (this is my favorite. You see a kabuki player back stage getting dressed for a female role) 8. Work (the kimono as a uniform) 9. Footwear (an interesting detail) Apart from the beautiful pictures this book has an informative introduction by Liza Dalby and with each picture you get a caption that gives you some little piece of insight that changes the way you look at the picture. Having been to Japan this book to me is a souvenir of some of the things I've seen, the people wearing kimono in the street, the festivals. But it also showed me some things I could never see (the behind the stage kabuki pictures and the manufacturing of the kimono). If you have been to Japan you too will recognize some of these pictures. If you have not been to Japan this book gives you a great impression of what to expect (kimono wise that is). Last but not least the book has a beautiful design, it's a great coffee table book.

As I pondered this question of how to be a success at court, I came to the conclusion that literary ambition was more likely than not to bring a woman to a bad end.

Liza Dalby's enchanting book The Tale of Murasaki is a brilliantly imagined fictional biography of the 11th-century Japanese writer Murasaki Shikibu, author of The Tale of Genji--the world's first novel. The Heian period produced at least two great works of world literature: Murasaki's The Tale of Genji and Sei Shonagon's Pillow Book; Dalby's fine first novel draws directly from the surviving fragments of Murasaki's own diary and poetry (as well as the occasional echo of Sei Shonagon) to create a vivid and emotionally detailed portrait of an intelligent, sensitive and complex woman drawn initially to writing stories about the amorous encounters of Prince Genji as a means of entertaining her friends and expressing her own richly creative temperament. As the stories become public, however, she is forced, against her own natural reticence, to take up a position at court, and the Genji stories become a conduit for commenting on the mores and intrigues of court life. Struggling to write and to stay true to her literary vision, her last tales are inflected by Buddhist thought on the transience and beauty of the world.

I have always felt compelled to set down a vision of things I have heard and seen. Life itself has never been enough. It only became real for me when I fashioned it into stories. Yet, somehow, despite all I've written, the true nature of things I've tried to grasp in my fiction still manages to drift through the words and sit, like little piles of dust, between the lines.

Dalby is an anthropologist by trade: research for her first study Geisha gained her the distinction of being the only Westerner to have trained in that much misunderstood profession, and she was a consultant on Steven Spielberg's film of Arthur Golden's best-selling novel Memoirs of a Geisha. Following a second study, Kimono, Dalby has turned her attention to fiction with admirable results, reinvigorating the genre of the historical novel with a narrative that combines meticulous research with emotional acuity. Recreating the intricate world of 11th-century Japan--the political and sexual machinations, the preoccupation with clothing and custom, the difficult and tenuous position of courtiers, the intensity of female friendships in a male-dominated society--Dalby shows us how Murasaki's sensibilities were shaped by and responded to the culture in which she lived.

A rich and convincing debut book, then: and if, in addition, readers are moved to read the works of Murasaki and Sei Shonagon themselves, Dalby is to be congratulated all the more fulsomely for reminding us of the work of these great writers. --Burhan Tufail

As I pondered this question of how to be a success at court, I came to the conclusion that literary ambition was more likely than not to bring a woman to a bad end.

Liza Dalby's enchanting book The Tale of Murasaki is a brilliantly imagined fictional biography of the 11th-century Japanese writer Murasaki Shikibu, author of The Tale of Genji--the world's first novel. The Heian period produced at least two great works of world literature: Murasaki's The Tale of Genji and Sei Shonagon's Pillow Book; Dalby's fine first novel draws directly from the surviving fragments of Murasaki's own diary and poetry (as well as the occasional echo of Sei Shonagon) to create a vivid and emotionally detailed portrait of an intelligent, sensitive and complex woman drawn initially to writing stories about the amorous encounters of Prince Genji as a means of entertaining her friends and expressing her own richly creative temperament. As the stories become public, however, she is forced, against her own natural reticence, to take up a position at court, and the Genji stories become a conduit for commenting on the mores and intrigues of court life. Struggling to write and to stay true to her literary vision, her last tales are inflected by Buddhist thought on the transience and beauty of the world.

I have always felt compelled to set down a vision of things I have heard and seen. Life itself has never been enough. It only became real for me when I fashioned it into stories. Yet, somehow, despite all I've written, the true nature of things I've tried to grasp in my fiction still manages to drift through the words and sit, like little piles of dust, between the lines.

Dalby is an anthropologist by trade: research for her first study Geisha gained her the distinction of being the only Westerner to have trained in that much misunderstood profession, and she was a consultant on Steven Spielberg's film of Arthur Golden's best-selling novel Memoirs of a Geisha. Following a second study, Kimono, Dalby has turned her attention to fiction with admirable results, reinvigorating the genre of the historical novel with a narrative that combines meticulous research with emotional acuity. Recreating the intricate world of 11th-century Japan--the political and sexual machinations, the preoccupations with clothing and custom, the difficult and tenuous position of courtiers, the intensity of female friendships in a male-dominated society--Dalby shows us how Murasaki's sensibilities were shaped by and responded to the culture in which she lived.

A rich and convincing debut book, then: and if, in addition, readers are moved to read the works of Murasaki and Sei Shonagon themselves, Dalby is to be congratulated all the more fulsomely for reminding us of the work of these great writers. --Burhan Tufail.

Geisha, 19 Jul 2008
In `Geisha' Liza Dalby has managed to write a book studying the lives of Geisha and how their art developed, whilst at the same time making it flow like a novel. This book is an in-depth look at Geisha life and also touches upon general life in Japan as well, which makes for fascinating and captivating reading. It is illustrated throughout with photos and a few charts/graphs to demonstrate points made. Liza is the only (at the time of writing) foreigner to be introduced into the Geisha world and this affords her, and us, with a unique insight into the traditions and lifestyle of Geisha. She writes with genuine humour and with sympathy for the lives Geisha lead and the sacrifices they make for their art and this is passed on to the reader. I found myself completely immersed in the lifestyles and aspirations of those described and had a deeper understanding of Geisha life as a result. An informative read, written in a beautiful way, what more can you ask for?

A wonderful peek into a secret world, 14 Jun 2007
It is probably worth mentioning after reading previous reviews of this book, it is NOT fiction like Memoirs Of A Geisha. This is a true life account of an American women living amongst Geisha. Liza Dalby's writing brings to life the secret 'flower and willow' world before the readers very eyes. It is a touching and personal account with well researched facts peppered amongst Liza's own experiences. I would recommend this book to anyone, who like me has a huge interest in the rarely viewed world of the Geisha.

Fact, not Fiction!, 27 May 2007
This is a very interesting book that gives a valuable insight into the world of geisha. As a more accessible text based on an anthropologist's study, it achieves an in depth look at history, tradition and the geisha world of thirty years ago from the point of view of an outsider who became accepted into the Pontocho community. It is well written and presented in a format that can be dipped in and out of with ease, with excellent notes, glossary and indexing.

Unlike some other reviewers on this page, I have read and re-read this book, and frequently use it for reference. The background information about such topics as the different geisha districts in Kyoto, geisha names etc. is excellent in helping the reader's greater understanding of the subject.

I would recommend following up this book by reading the autobiography "Geisha of Gion", by Mineko Iwasaki, which is a highly personal account by the leading geisha of the 1960s, in contrast to Dalby's more objective study.

Readers, please remember that Arthur Golden's "Memoirs of a Geisha" is fiction! If you are looking for "racy" fiction, full of vague details about "oriental life", this is NOT the book for you...


An interesting and intelligent insight into this vanishing way of life, 28 May 2006
After reading many reviews of this book, I do feel that people have misunderstood it. Just to get one thing clear, this book isn't some romantic work of fiction like 'Memoirs of a Geisha', it reads more like a text book with some personal experiences thrown in.

I don't think Liza Dalby ever meant to become a geisha in the formal sense, she was there to do research for a dissertation or thesis of some kind on the subject. Many people have pointed out that her attending social occasions as a geisha without having years of training etc makes a mockery of the whole profession. This could not be further from the truth.

Liza Dalby writes with intelligence and emotion and provides the reader with one of the most informative works on the subject that I have encountered. She covers every subject from the history of the geishas, to the instruments they play and how they dress. The book can be quite heavy going at times, but it is worth sticking to. If you are a fan of 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (as I am), then this is certainly worth checking out.

Another book worth checking out is 'Geisha of Gion' by Mineko Iwasaki.

Not a geisha at all, 25 Apr 2006
This book is interesting and certainly has some use in understanding the world of the geisha. However I was disappointed in some respects. The book is very dry, almost like a university dissertation. Of course it shouldn't have been as racey as Golden's book (Memoirs of a Geisha), but she still could have been more eloquent.

Also it is important to mention that Liza Dalby was NOT a geisha. This has either been a bit of nice PR from her publishers, or perhaps from Dalby herself. Although she was allowed to accompany geiko friends to some of their parties to help better understand their world:

a) she never went through the formal processes of becoming a geisha (or maiko) herself, including the years of training.
b) she was not formally associated with any of the okiya or ochaya in Kyoto.
c) she was not formally registered as a geisha with the community authorities.
d) clients were not billed for her attendance at parties.

It may seem exciting to believe that a non-Japanese woman was a geisha, but slapping on some makeup, wearing a kimono and going out into the night is not sufficient. It is unfair to the real geisha and maiko of Japan to continue with this belief, as it belittles the hard work and effort they put in every day.

Instead I would recommend "Geisha: The Secret History of a Vanishing World" by Lesley Downer, as she is more modest about her experiences with the various geisha communities.

Very well researched, though quite dated, 14 Apr 2003
As someone who wears kimono almost everyday, I found the book informative and fascinating. The research concerning the history of Kimono developement is absolutely fantastic.
As always, she is most brilliant when dealing with Japanese history rather than modern Japan.

When she starts talking about "modern Japanese society", it often sounds extremely 1970-80s and what she calls "Japanese mentality" to me looks like the characteristics of a generation or two above.
All in all, I find them boring and having no resemblance to the reality as I know it in Japan.
(If you can imagine yourself meeting a Japanese who had been to the UK in 1970s and firmly believed some of the hippies' styles as "essentially British", you would see the slight dizziness I felt in reading some of her comments.)

As for the kimono in our life, although she makes a point that it has more or less completely dissappeared, they are making a new come back. Observations of a foreign culture is a difficult thing. Just like milk, they have sell-by date and once it's gone, they start smelling rather bad.
But perhaps I should not be too harsh on those points.
After all, the book itself was first published quite some time ago. And, as I have already stated at the beginning, the research itself is absolutely brilliantly done.

Fascinating, 04 Apr 2002
If you've read 'Geisha' by Liza Dalby, you'll find this a wonderful exploration of one important aspect and reflection of Japanese, and Geisha culture. The book takes a journey through the history and social meaning of kimono.

Not just a pretty dress, 09 Jan 2002
'Kimono: Fashioning Culture' is much more than the story of a single garment. A dynamic blend of fashion, social history and anthropology, the book traces the evolution of Japanese self-identity through the kimono. Dalby offers a carefully researched history of kimono, mouth-watering excerpts from a seventeenth-century Japanese fashion magazine, interviews with modern kimono wearers, and illustrations that are informative rather than blandly pretty.
Far from being a stable, tradition-bound political and cultural symbol, the kimono has passed in and out of fashion, changing to suit its times and wearers. Dalby deftly dissects the subtle differences-the length of a sleeve, the placement of a collar-that proclaim a woman's age, class, marital status, and personal taste.
Dalby writes about the look and feel of kimono with the authority of personal experience; while researching her doctoral dissertation in a geisha community in Kyoto (the basis of her previous book, Geisha), she wore kimono every day. Indeed, geisha are the only women who still wear kimono on a daily basis, and Dalby points out that the fates of geisha and kimono are intertwined: 'Whether or not a Japanese has ever met a geisha or used her specialized service (and most have not), a feeling remains that Japan would be losing something unique and precious by allowing geisha to disappear. Kimono has a similar hold on the Japanese imagination.' After reading Dalby's insightful account, it is easy to see why.

Great pictures, good insight, 03 Jul 2001
...I have to be honest I bought this book because Liza Dalby wrote the introduction and because Arthur Golden was quoted saying it was a good book. Having read the books by Liza Dalby and Arthur Golden I wanted to see some pictures of kimono and geisha that were more than just pretty pictures. And that's exactly what this book does, it gives you 120 beautiful pictures and a lot of information.

The book is divided into sections: 1. The use of kimono in festivals, 2. Kimono you see in the street, 3. Production (weaving,spinning, dyeing), 4. The commercial side of kimono (fitting, kimono shops), 5. Maiko and Geisha (including some wonderful pictures made at the Nyokoba Geisha Training school in Kyoto), 6. Men wearing kimono (storytellers, sumo referees, tea ushers, monks) 7. Kabuki (this is my favorite. You see a kabuki player back stage getting dressed for a female role) 8. Work (the kimono as a uniform) 9. Footwear (an interesting detail) Apart from the beautiful pictures this book has an informative introduction by Liza Dalby and with each picture you get a caption that gives you some little piece of insight that changes the way you look at the picture. Having been to Japan this book to me is a souvenir of some of the things I've seen, the people wearing kimono in the street, the festivals. But it also showed me some things I could never see (the behind the stage kabuki pictures and the manufacturing of the kimono). If you have been to Japan you too will recognize some of these pictures. If you have not been to Japan this book gives you a great impression of what to expect (kimono wise that is). Last but not least the book has a beautiful design, it's a great coffee table book.

Absolutely Amazing, 27 May 2008
I loved this book, it was amazing, I kept forgetting that it was set so far in the past.

I highly recommend it.

A Trip to Heian-kyo, 21 Dec 2007
The ''Story of Murasaki is a delight for anyone who likes a good story and a must if you've read Murasaki Shikibu's 'The Tale of Genji'. That 11th century novel by a lady at the imperial court is one of the best in the world - of all time. In her own book, Liza Dalby brings back Murasaki, the author of Genji, her father, siblings, friends, the empress and emperor, and the real ruler of Japan - Fujiwara Michinaga. She does it so well that the reader becomes a shadow presence in Murasaki's world sharing her customs, manners, pleasures and troubles. L. Dalby's writing is excellent as is her research. Compelling reading that culminates with a feeling of separation and loss when the book comes to its end.

Poetic..., 02 Oct 2004
Liza Dalby writes beatifully. Her evocation of 11th century rural Echizen, imperial Kyoto and the comings and goings of the royal households, makes for effortless immersion. You are there with Murasaki, her inkstone, brushes and paper, supplying her ever-growing fanbase with more Genji!. Poetic.

Excellent Reading, 29 Aug 2004
This is a great book for anyone who has the slightest bit of interest in Japanese history. Liza writes so well, that you can easily lose yourself in the book and transport yourself to the time that she writes about.

The tale of murasaki, 02 Feb 2004
I thought this was a well researched book and definately well written; however it has to be one of most depressing books I've ever read. I felt deflated when I finished it. It began with the death of murasaki's mother and from then on became quite hopeful, until gradually becoming more and more dark as murasaki became disillusioned with her life, prospects and surroundings. There is a poetic beauty about it however, and i would recommend it (unless you want a feel-good book, in which case avoid it.)

Geisha, 19 Jul 2008
In `Geisha' Liza Dalby has managed to write a book studying the lives of Geisha and how their art developed, whilst at the same time making it flow like a novel. This book is an in-depth look at Geisha life and also touches upon general life in Japan as well, which makes for fascinating and captivating reading. It is illustrated throughout with photos and a few charts/graphs to demonstrate points made. Liza is the only (at the time of writing) foreigner to be introduced into the Geisha world and this affords her, and us, with a unique insight into the traditions and lifestyle of Geisha. She writes with genuine humour and with sympathy for the lives Geisha lead and the sacrifices they make for their art and this is passed on to the reader. I found myself completely immersed in the lifestyles and aspirations of those described and had a deeper understanding of Geisha life as a result. An informative read, written in a beautiful way, what more can you ask for?

A wonderful peek into a secret world, 14 Jun 2007
It is probably worth mentioning after reading previous reviews of this book, it is NOT fiction like Memoirs Of A Geisha. This is a true life account of an American women living amongst Geisha. Liza Dalby's writing brings to life the secret 'flower and willow' world before the readers very eyes. It is a touching and personal account with well researched facts peppered amongst Liza's own experiences. I would recommend this book to anyone, who like me has a huge interest in the rarely viewed world of the Geisha.

Fact, not Fiction!, 27 May 2007
This is a very interesting book that gives a valuable insight into the world of geisha. As a more accessible text based on an anthropologist's study, it achieves an in depth look at history, tradition and the geisha world of thirty years ago from the point of view of an outsider who became accepted into the Pontocho community. It is well written and presented in a format that can be dipped in and out of with ease, with excellent notes, glossary and indexing.

Unlike some other reviewers on this page, I have read and re-read this book, and frequently use it for reference. The background information about such topics as the different geisha districts in Kyoto, geisha names etc. is excellent in helping the reader's greater understanding of the subject.

I would recommend following up this book by reading the autobiography "Geisha of Gion", by Mineko Iwasaki, which is a highly personal account by the leading geisha of the 1960s, in contrast to Dalby's more objective study.

Readers, please remember that Arthur Golden's "Memoirs of a Geisha" is fiction! If you are looking for "racy" fiction, full of vague details about "oriental life", this is NOT the book for you...


An interesting and intelligent insight into this vanishing way of life, 28 May 2006
After reading many reviews of this book, I do feel that people have misunderstood it. Just to get one thing clear, this book isn't some romantic work of fiction like 'Memoirs of a Geisha', it reads more like a text book with some personal experiences thrown in.

I don't think Liza Dalby ever meant to become a geisha in the formal sense, she was there to do research for a dissertation or thesis of some kind on the subject. Many people have pointed out that her attending social occasions as a geisha without having years of training etc makes a mockery of the whole profession. This could not be further from the truth.

Liza Dalby writes with intelligence and emotion and provides the reader with one of the most informative works on the subject that I have encountered. She covers every subject from the history of the geishas, to the instruments they play and how they dress. The book can be quite heavy going at times, but it is worth sticking to. If you are a fan of 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (as I am), then this is certainly worth checking out.

Another book worth checking out is 'Geisha of Gion' by Mineko Iwasaki.

Not a geisha at all, 25 Apr 2006
This book is interesting and certainly has some use in understanding the world of the geisha. However I was disappointed in some respects. The book is very dry, almost like a university dissertation. Of course it shouldn't have been as racey as Golden's book (Memoirs of a Geisha), but she still could have been more eloquent.

Also it is important to mention that Liza Dalby was NOT a geisha. This has either been a bit of nice PR from her publishers, or perhaps from Dalby herself. Although she was allowed to accompany geiko friends to some of their parties to help better understand their world:

a) she never went through the formal processes of becoming a geisha (or maiko) herself, including the years of training.
b) she was not formally associated with any of the okiya or ochaya in Kyoto.
c) she was not formally registered as a geisha with the community authorities.
d) clients were not billed for her attendance at parties.

It may seem exciting to believe that a non-Japanese woman was a geisha, but slapping on some makeup, wearing a kimono and going out into the night is not sufficient. It is unfair to the real geisha and maiko of Japan to continue with this belief, as it belittles the hard work and effort they put in every day.

Instead I would recommend "Geisha: The Secret History of a Vanishing World" by Lesley Downer, as she is more modest about her experiences with the various geisha communities.

Very well researched, though quite dated, 14 Apr 2003
As someone who wears kimono almost everyday, I found the book informative and fascinating. The research concerning the history of Kimono developement is absolutely fantastic.
As always, she is most brilliant when dealing with Japanese history rather than modern Japan.

When she starts talking about "modern Japanese society", it often sounds extremely 1970-80s and what she calls "Japanese mentality" to me looks like the characteristics of a generation or two above.
All in all, I find them boring and having no resemblance to the reality as I know it in Japan.
(If you can imagine yourself meeting a Japanese who had been to the UK in 1970s and firmly believed some of the hippies' styles as "essentially British", you would see the slight dizziness I felt in reading some of her comments.)

As for the kimono in our life, although she makes a point that it has more or less completely dissappeared, they are making a new come back. Observations of a foreign culture is a difficult thing. Just like milk, they have sell-by date and once it's gone, they start smelling rather bad.
But perhaps I should not be too harsh on those points.
After all, the book itself was first published quite some time ago. And, as I have already stated at the beginning, the research itself is absolutely brilliantly done.

Fascinating, 04 Apr 2002
If you've read 'Geisha' by Liza Dalby, you'll find this a wonderful exploration of one important aspect and reflection of Japanese, and Geisha culture. The book takes a journey through the history and social meaning of kimono.

Not just a pretty dress, 09 Jan 2002
'Kimono: Fashioning Culture' is much more than the story of a single garment. A dynamic blend of fashion, social history and anthropology, the book traces the evolution of Japanese self-identity through the kimono. Dalby offers a carefully researched history of kimono, mouth-watering excerpts from a seventeenth-century Japanese fashion magazine, interviews with modern kimono wearers, and illustrations that are informative rather than blandly pretty.
Far from being a stable, tradition-bound political and cultural symbol, the kimono has passed in and out of fashion, changing to suit its times and wearers. Dalby deftly dissects the subtle differences-the length of a sleeve, the placement of a collar-that proclaim a woman's age, class, marital status, and personal taste.
Dalby writes about the look and feel of kimono with the authority of personal experience; while researching her doctoral dissertation in a geisha community in Kyoto (the basis of her previous book, Geisha), she wore kimono every day. Indeed, geisha are the only women who still wear kimono on a daily basis, and Dalby points out that the fates of geisha and kimono are intertwined: 'Whether or not a Japanese has ever met a geisha or used her specialized service (and most have not), a feeling remains that Japan would be losing something unique and precious by allowing geisha to disappear. Kimono has a similar hold on the Japanese imagination.' After reading Dalby's insightful account, it is easy to see why.

Great pictures, good insight, 03 Jul 2001
...I have to be honest I bought this book because Liza Dalby wrote the introduction and because Arthur Golden was quoted saying it was a good book. Having read the books by Liza Dalby and Arthur Golden I wanted to see some pictures of kimono and geisha that were more than just pretty pictures. And that's exactly what this book does, it gives you 120 beautiful pictures and a lot of information.

The book is divided into sections: 1. The use of kimono in festivals, 2. Kimono you see in the street, 3. Production (weaving,spinning, dyeing), 4. The commercial side of kimono (fitting, kimono shops), 5. Maiko and Geisha (including some wonderful pictures made at the Nyokoba Geisha Training school in Kyoto), 6. Men wearing kimono (storytellers, sumo referees, tea ushers, monks) 7. Kabuki (this is my favorite. You see a kabuki player back stage getting dressed for a female role) 8. Work (the kimono as a uniform) 9. Footwear (an interesting detail) Apart from the beautiful pictures this book has an informative introduction by Liza Dalby and with each picture you get a caption that gives you some little piece of insight that changes the way you look at the picture. Having been to Japan this book to me is a souvenir of some of the things I've seen, the people wearing kimono in the street, the festivals. But it also showed me some things I could never see (the behind the stage kabuki pictures and the manufacturing of the kimono). If you have been to Japan you too will recognize some of these pictures. If you have not been to Japan this book gives you a great impression of what to expect (kimono wise that is). Last but not least the book has a beautiful design, it's a great coffee table book.

Absolutely Amazing, 27 May 2008
I loved this book, it was amazing, I kept forgetting that it was set so far in the past.

I highly recommend it.

A Trip to Heian-kyo, 21 Dec 2007
The ''Story of Murasaki is a delight for anyone who likes a good story and a must if you've read Murasaki Shikibu's 'The Tale of Genji'. That 11th century novel by a lady at the imperial court is one of the best in the world - of all time. In her own book, Liza Dalby brings back Murasaki, the author of Genji, her father, siblings, friends, the empress and emperor, and the real ruler of Japan - Fujiwara Michinaga. She does it so well that the reader becomes a shadow presence in Murasaki's world sharing her customs, manners, pleasures and troubles. L. Dalby's writing is excellent as is her research. Compelling reading that culminates with a feeling of separation and loss when the book comes to its end.

Poetic..., 02 Oct 2004
Liza Dalby writes beatifully. Her evocation of 11th century rural Echizen, imperial Kyoto and the comings and goings of the royal households, makes for effortless immersion. You are there with Murasaki, her inkstone, brushes and paper, supplying her ever-growing fanbase with more Genji!. Poetic.

Excellent Reading, 29 Aug 2004
This is a great book for anyone who has the slightest bit of interest in Japanese history. Liza writes so well, that you can easily lose yourself in the book and transport yourself to the time that she writes about.

The tale of murasaki, 02 Feb 2004
I thought this was a well researched book and definately well written; however it has to be one of most depressing books I've ever read. I felt deflated when I finished it. It began with the death of murasaki's mother and from then on became quite hopeful, until gradually becoming more and more dark as murasaki became disillusioned with her life, prospects and surroundings. There is a poetic beauty about it however, and i would recommend it (unless you want a feel-good book, in which case avoid it.)

"Sparrows enter the water and turn into clams", 13 Oct 2007
It was Liza Dalby's fictional novel about the life of the great Heian writer, Murasaki Shikibu, that got me utterly fixed on Japanese poetry, court diaries and culture. As soon as I saw that she had written another book, I did not hesitate to buy it. For anyone interested in nature, changing seasons and Japanese culture, this is the perfect book.

Dalby has taken the form of an ancient Chinese almanac in order to create her book, examining how the 72 units of the year are broken down and why. The title for my review is the title for the unit October 11 through to October 15th (the time I wrote this review). Dalby first gives a small paragraph explaining why such comments may be made, and then she compares them to Japanese life aswell as her life in America. What this creates is an original memoir, drawing upon inspiration from personal anecdote, inspiration from nature along with references to literature and examples of Japanese haiku.

I loved this memoir - it is certainly a book that I shall keep and treasure, returning to it some time in the future. As a lover of nature and literature, it was just perfect for me.

Geisha, 19 Jul 2008
In `Geisha' Liza Dalby has managed to write a book studying the lives of Geisha and how their art developed, whilst at the same time making it flow like a novel. This book is an in-depth look at Geisha life and also touches upon general life in Japan as well, which makes for fascinating and captivating reading. It is illustrated throughout with photos and a few charts/graphs to demonstrate points made. Liza is the only (at the time of writing) foreigner to be introduced into the Geisha world and this affords her, and us, with a unique insight into the traditions and lifestyle of Geisha. She writes with genuine humour and with sympathy for the lives Geisha lead and the sacrifices they make for their art and this is passed on to the reader. I found myself completely immersed in the lifestyles and aspirations of those described and had a deeper understanding of Geisha life as a result. An informative read, written in a beautiful way, what more can you ask for?

A wonderful peek into a secret world, 14 Jun 2007
It is probably worth mentioning after reading previous reviews of this book, it is NOT fiction like Memoirs Of A Geisha. This is a true life account of an American women living amongst Geisha. Liza Dalby's writing brings to life the secret 'flower and willow' world before the readers very eyes. It is a touching and personal account with well researched facts peppered amongst Liza's own experiences. I would recommend this book to anyone, who like me has a huge interest in the rarely viewed world of the Geisha.

Fact, not Fiction!, 27 May 2007
This is a very interesting book that gives a valuable insight into the world of geisha. As a more accessible text based on an anthropologist's study, it achieves an in depth look at history, tradition and the geisha world of thirty years ago from the point of view of an outsider who became accepted into the Pontocho community. It is well written and presented in a format that can be dipped in and out of with ease, with excellent notes, glossary and indexing.

Unlike some other reviewers on this page, I have read and re-read this book, and frequently use it for reference. The background information about such topics as the different geisha districts in Kyoto, geisha names etc. is excellent in helping the reader's greater understanding of the subject.

I would recommend following up this book by reading the autobiography "Geisha of Gion", by Mineko Iwasaki, which is a highly personal account by the leading geisha of the 1960s, in contrast to Dalby's more objective study.

Readers, please remember that Arthur Golden's "Memoirs of a Geisha" is fiction! If you are looking for "racy" fiction, full of vague details about "oriental life", this is NOT the book for you...


An interesting and intelligent insight into this vanishing way of life, 28 May 2006
After reading many reviews of this book, I do feel that people have misunderstood it. Just to get one thing clear, this book isn't some romantic work of fiction like 'Memoirs of a Geisha', it reads more like a text book with some personal experiences thrown in.

I don't think Liza Dalby ever meant to become a geisha in the formal sense, she was there to do research for a dissertation or thesis of some kind on the subject. Many people have pointed out that her attending social occasions as a geisha without having years of training etc makes a mockery of the whole profession. This could not be further from the truth.

Liza Dalby writes with intelligence and emotion and provides the reader with one of the most informative works on the subject that I have encountered. She covers every subject from the history of the geishas, to the instruments they play and how they dress. The book can be quite heavy going at times, but it is worth sticking to. If you are a fan of 'Memoirs of a Geisha' (as I am), then this is certainly worth checking out.

Another book worth checking out is 'Geisha of Gion' by Mineko Iwasaki.

Not a geisha at all, 25 Apr 2006
This book is interesting and certainly has some use in understanding the world of the geisha. However I was disappointed in some respects. The book is very dry, almost like a university dissertation. Of course it shouldn't have been as racey as Golden's book (Memoirs of a Geisha), but she still could have been more eloquent.

Also it is important to mention that Liza Dalby was NOT a geisha. This has either been a bit of nice PR from her publishers, or perhaps from Dalby herself. Although she was allowed to accompany geiko friends to some of their parties to help better understand their world:

a) she never went through the formal processes of becoming a geisha (or maiko) herself, including the years of training.
b) she was not formally associated with any of the okiya or ochaya in Kyoto.
c) she was not formally registered as a geisha with the community authorities.
d) clients were not billed for her attendance at parties.

It may seem exciting to believe that a non-Japanese woman was a geisha, but slapping on some makeup, wearing a kimono and going out into the night is not sufficient. It is unfair to the real geisha and maiko of Japan to continue with this belief, as it belittles the hard work and effort they put in every day.

Instead I would recommend "Geisha: The Secret History of a Vanishing World" by Lesley Downer, as she is more modest about her experiences with the various geisha communities.

Very well researched, though quite dated, 14 Apr 2003
As someone who wears kimono almost everyday, I found the book informative and fascinating. The research concerning the history of Kimono developement is absolutely fantastic.
As always, she is most brilliant when dealing with Japanese history rather than modern Japan.

When she starts talking about "modern Japanese society", it often sounds extremely 1970-80s and what she calls "Japanese mentality" to me looks like the characteristics of a generation or two above.
All in all, I find them boring and having no resemblance to the reality as I know it in Japan.
(If you can imagine yourself meeting a Japanese who had been to the UK in 1970s and firmly believed some of the hippies' styles as "essentially British", you would see the slight dizziness I felt in reading some of her comments.)

As for the kimono in our life, although she makes a point that it has more or less completely dissappeared, they are making a new come back. Observations of a foreign culture is a difficult thing. Just like milk, they have sell-by date and once it's gone, they start smelling rather bad.
But perhaps I should not be too harsh on those points.
After all, the book itself was first published quite some time ago. And, as I have already stated at the beginning, the research itself is absolutely brilliantly done.

Fascinating, 04 Apr 2002
If you've read 'Geisha' by Liza Dalby, you'll find this a wonderful exploration of one important aspect and reflection of Japanese, and Geisha culture. The book takes a journey through the history and social meaning of kimono.

Not just a pretty dress, 09 Jan 2002
'Kimono: Fashioning Culture' is much more than the story of a single garment. A dynamic blend of fashion, social history and anthropology, the book traces the evolution of Japanese self-identity through the kimono. Dalby offers a carefully researched history of kimono, mouth-watering excerpts from a seventeenth-century Japanese fashion magazine, interviews with modern kimono wearers, and illustrations that are informative rather than blandly pretty.
Far from being a stable, tradition-bound political and cultural symbol, the kimono has passed in and out of fashion, changing to suit its times and wearers. Dalby deftly dissects the subtle differences-the length of a sleeve, the placement of a collar-that proclaim a woman's age, class, marital status, and personal taste.
Dalby writes about the look and feel of kimono with the authority of personal experience; while researching her doctoral dissertation in a geisha community in Kyoto (the basis of her previous book, Geisha), she wore kimono every day. Indeed, geisha are the only women who still wear kimono on a daily basis, and Dalby points out that the fates of geisha and kimono are intertwined: 'Whether or not a Japanese has ever met a geisha or used her specialized service (and most have not), a feeling remains that Japan would be losing something unique and precious by allowing geisha to disappear. Kimono has a similar hold on the Japanese imagination.' After reading Dalby's insightful account, it is easy to see why.

Great pictures, good insight, 03 Jul 2001
...I have to be honest I bought this book because Liza Dalby wrote the introduction and because Arthur Golden was quoted saying it was a good book. Having read the books by Liza Dalby and Arthur Golden I wanted to see some pictures of kimono and geisha that were more than just pretty pictures. And that's exactly what this book does, it gives you 120 beautiful pictures and a lot of information.

The book is divided into sections: 1. The use of kimono in festivals, 2. Kimono you see in the street, 3. Production (weaving,spinning, dyeing), 4. The commercial side of kimono (fitting, kimono shops), 5. Maiko and Geisha (including some wonderful pictures made at the Nyokoba Geisha Training school in Kyoto), 6. Men wearing kimono (storytellers, sumo referees, tea ushers, monks) 7. Kabuki (this is my favorite. You see a kabuki player back stage getting dressed for a female role) 8. Work (the kimono as a uniform) 9. Footwear (an interesting detail) Apart from the beautiful pictures this book has an informative introduction by Liza Dalby and with each picture you get a caption that gives you some little piece of insight that changes the way you look at the picture. Having been to Japan this book to me is a souvenir of some of the things I've seen, the people wearing kimono in the street, the festivals. But it also showed me some things I could never see (the behind the stage kabuki pictures and the manufacturing of the kimono). If you have been to Japan you too will recognize some of these pictures. If you have not been to Japan this book gives you a great impression of what to expect (kimono wise that is). Last but not least the book has a beautiful design, it's a great coffee table book.

Absolutely Amazing, 27 May 2008
I loved this book, it was amazing, I kept forgetting that it was set so far in the past.

I highly recommend it.

A Trip to Heian-kyo, 21 Dec 2007
The ''Story of Murasaki is a delight for anyone who likes a good story and a must if you've read Murasaki Shikibu's 'The Tale of Genji'. That 11th century novel by a lady at the imperial court is one of the best in the world - of all time. In her own book, Liza Dalby brings back Murasaki, the author of Genji, her father, siblings, friends, the empress and emperor, and the real ruler of Japan - Fujiwara Michinaga. She does it so well that the reader becomes a shadow presence in Murasaki's world sharing her customs, manners, pleasures and troubles. L. Dalby's writing is excellent as is her research. Compelling reading that culminates with a feeling of separation and loss when the book comes to its end.

Poetic..., 02 Oct 2004
Liza Dalby writes beatifully. Her evocation of 11th century rural Echizen, imperial Kyoto and the comings and goings of the royal households, makes for effortless immersion. You are there with Murasaki, her inkstone, brushes and paper, supplying her ever-growing fanbase with more Genji!. Poetic.

Excellent Reading, 29 Aug 2004
This is a great book for anyone who has the slightest bit of interest in Japanese history. Liza writes so well, that you can easily lose yourself in the book and transport yourself to the time that she writes about.

The tale of murasaki, 02 Feb 2004
I thought this was a well researched book and definately well written; however it has to be one of most depressing books I've ever read. I felt deflated when I finished it. It began with the death of murasaki's mother and from then on became quite hopeful, until gradually becoming more and more dark as murasaki became disillusioned with her life, prospects and surroundings. There is a poetic beauty about it however, and i would recommend it (unless you want a feel-good book, in which case avoid it.)

"Sparrows enter the water and turn into clams", 13 Oct 2007
It was Liza Dalby's fictional novel about the life of the great Heian writer, Murasaki Shikibu, that got me utterly fixed on Japanese poetry, court diaries and culture. As soon as I saw that she had written another book, I did not hesitate to buy it. For anyone interested in nature, changing seasons and Japanese culture, this is the perfect book.

Dalby has taken the form of an ancient Chinese almanac in order to create her book, examining how the 72 units of the year are broken down and why. The title for my review is the title for the unit October 11 through to October 15th (the time I wrote this review). Dalby first gives a small paragraph explaining why such comments may be made, and then she compares them to Japanese life aswell as her life in America. What this creates is an original memoir, drawing upon inspiration from personal anecdote, inspiration from nature along with references to literature and examples of Japanese haiku.

I loved this memoir - it is certainly a book that I shall keep and treasure, returning to it some time in the future. As a lover of nature and literature, it was just perfect for me.

Very well researched, though quite dated, 14 Apr 2003
As someone who wears kimono almost everyday, I found the book informative and fascinating. The research concerning the history of Kimono developement is absolutely fantastic.
As always, she is most brilliant when dealing with Japanese history rather than modern Japan.

When she starts talking about "modern Japanese society", it often sounds extremely 1970-80s and what she calls "Japanese mentality" to me looks like the characteristics of a generation or two above.
All in all, I find them boring and having no resemblance to the reality as I know it in Japan.
(If you can imagine yourself meeting a Japanese who had been to the UK in 1970s and firmly believed some of the hippies' styles as "essentially British", you would see the slight dizziness I felt in reading some of her comments.)

As for the kimono in our life, although she makes a point that it has more or less completely dissappeared, they are making a new come back. Observations of a foreign culture is a difficult thing. Just like milk, they have sell-by date and once it's gone, they start smelling rather bad.
But perhaps I should not be too harsh on those points.
After all, the book itself was first published quite some time ago. And, as I have already stated at the beginning, the research itself is absolutely brilliantly done.

Fascinating, 04 Apr 2002
If you've read 'Geisha' by Liza Dalby, you'll find this a wonderful exploration of one important aspect and reflection of Japanese, and Geisha culture. The book takes a journey through the history and social meaning of kimono.

Not just a pretty dress, 09 Jan 2002
'Kimono: Fashioning Culture' is much more than the story of a single garment. A dynamic blend of fashion, social history and anthropology, the book traces the evolution of Japanese self-identity through the kimono. Dalby offers a carefully researched history of kimono, mouth-watering excerpts from a seventeenth-century Japanese fashion magazine, interviews with modern kimono wearers, and illustrations that are informative rather than blandly pretty.
Far from being a stable, tradition-bound political and cultural symbol, the kimono has passed in and out of fashion, changing to suit its times and wearers. Dalby deftly dissects the subtle differences-the length of a sleeve, the placement of a collar-that proclaim a woman's age, class, marital status, and personal taste.
Dalby writes about the look and feel of kimono with the authority of personal experience; while researching her doctoral dissertation in a geisha community in Kyoto (the basis of her previous book, Geisha), she wore kimono every day. Indeed, geisha are the only women who still wear kimono on a daily basis, and Dalby points out that the fates of geisha and kimono are intertwined: 'Whether or not a Japanese has ever met a geisha or used her specialized service (and most have not), a feeling remains that Japan would be losing something unique and precious by allowing geisha to disappear. Kimono has a similar hold on the Japanese imagination.' After reading Dalby's insightful account, it is easy to see why.

Great pictures, good insight, 03 Jul 2001
...I have to be honest I bought this book because Liza Dalby wrote the introduction and because Arthur Golden was quoted saying it was a good book. Having read the books by Liza Dalby and Arthur Golden I wanted to see some pictures of kimono and geisha that were more than just pretty pictures. And that's exactly what this book does, it gives you 120 beautiful pictures and a lot of information.

The book is divided into sections: 1. The use of kimono in festivals, 2. Kimono you see in the street, 3. Production (weaving,spinning, dyeing), 4. The commercial side of kimono (fitting, kimono shops), 5. Maiko and Geisha (including some wonderful pictures made at the Nyokoba Geisha Training school in Kyoto), 6. Men wearing kimono (storytellers, sumo referees, tea ushers, monks) 7. Kabuki (this is my favorite. You see a kabuki player back stage getting dressed for a female role) 8. Work (the kimono as a uniform) 9. Footwear (an interesting detail) Apart from the beautiful pictures this book has an informative introduction by Liza Dalby and with each picture you get a caption that gives you some little piece of insight that changes the way you look at the picture. Having been to Japan this book to me is a souvenir of some of the things I've seen, the people wearing kimono in the street, the festivals. But it also showed me some things I could never see (the behind the stage kabuki pictures and the manufacturing of the kimono). If you have been to Japan you too will recognize some of these pictures. If you have not been to Japan this book gives you a great impression of what to expect (kimono wise that is). Last but not least the book has a beautiful design, it's a great coffee table book.